Kamis, 27 September 2012

How to Train Your Dog at Home

Valuable Resource...

How to Easily Train Your Dog...
Like a Pro

It's essential for dog parents like you to know certain basic factors that determine your relationship with your dog and can go a long way in training him effectively.

Before you begin training your dog, it is absolutely essential that you build a loving bond with him. This is important as it helps you to understand his needs and instincts and also allows your dog to have complete trust in you.

Let's see how.......

How To Bond With Your Dog
Building a bond with your dog is the first and the most crucial step involved in training him successfully. As soon as you bring your dog home, you must first try to develop a caring and loving relationship with him in order to win his trust and confidence.


When dogs are secure in the knowledge that they belong to the family, they are more likely to respond better to their owners' training commands. Just like with any relationship, there must be mutual trust and respect between you and your dog.

Trust takes time to develop and respect comes from defining boundaries and treating any breach of those boundaries with firmness and fairness.

Without enforceable limitations, respect can’t be developed. And when there is no respect, building a bond with your dog is almost impossible.

Four Golden Rules to Building a Relationship with Your Dog:
  • Spend quality time together;
  • Take him out in the world and experience life together;
  • Establish and promote a level of mutual respect; and
  • Develop a way of communicating to understand each other's needs.
Building a bond with your dog will not only help you manage him better but will also make your dog calm, quiet and an extremely well-adjusted pet.

Love your dog and he will love you back!

When you're successful in building a bond with your dog, you can rest assured that training him and teaching him new and clever tricks will be a cakewalk.

Learn how to bond with your dog with this free mini course.

How Your Dog Learns...
Your dog's learning period can be divided into five phases:


The Teaching Phase – This is the phase where you must physically demonstrate to your Dog exactly what you want him to do.

The Practicing Phase – Practice makes Perfect. When a lesson is learned, practice with your dog what you have just taught him.

The Generalizing Phase – Here you must continue practicing with your dog in different locations and in an environment with a few distractions. You can take your dog out for a walk, or to a nearby park and command him to practice whatever you've taught him.

Practicing the learned lessons in multiple locations and in the presence of small distractions will help him learn and retain lessons better.

The Testing Phase – As soon as you're sure that your dog has achieved almost 90% success – he responds correctly almost every time you give a command – you must start testing his accuracy in newer locations with a lot of distractions.

Example: Take him to the local shopping mall and ask him to obey your command. He may not come up with the correct response the very first time you do this, but you must not lose hope.

The idea is to test your dog to see how he responds in an environment that is new to him. Set-up a situation where you are in control of the environment and your dog.

There are only 2 possibilities:
  • Your dog succeeds!!! (Trumpets please!)
  • In case your dog fails, re-examine the situation. Review and/or change your training. Then, try testing again.
Keep on testing until he succeeds. Follow the rule of the three Ps: patience, persistence, praise.

Internalizing Phase Finally, comes the extremely rewarding phase where your dog does everything he is taught to do even without your commands.

Remember:
  • Never scold your dog if he fails. It's not his fault. You have failed as a trainer!
  • You must be patient and persistent for your efforts to show rewards.
  • Appreciate and praise your dog when he does it right! A little encouragement will work wonders for your dog.
  • Dog Training is easy when you do it right.
Continued - Learn how to train your dog better with this free mini course.
Copyright © 2009 TrainPetDog.com
 

Minggu, 23 September 2012

Teaching Basic Commands

Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it interesting! –Kim

How to Train Your Dog to Come & Sit

by: Nylabone Extras

Even if you have no interest in advanced training of any kind, a basic education will make your dog a better-behaved, more confident companion and make you a happier dog owner. So, get your dog and let's start training and learning!

Recall ("Come") Command

A reliable recall – meaning your dog comes to you when you call or signal – is one of the most important trained behaviors he can learn. First of all, responding promptly to your call could save his life someday. And let's face it, you will save yourself a lot of frustration if your dog comes when you want him.

But how many dogs do you know who come reliably when their owners call them? By calling their dogs without taking the time to teach them to respond correctly, most people actually teach their dogs that they don't have to come when called. If you follow the plan outlined here, your dog will understand that he must come when you call, and he will want to do so.

Before You Begin

Before you begin teaching the recall, I'm going to suggest a few things that you can do to increase your chances of success. First, if you don't yet have your dog, now is the time to set the stage for teaching him to come every time you call. Plan for success, and when your new puppy or dog joins your life, follow the guidelines and avoid the potential pitfalls right from the start.

If you have an adult dog, you've probably already tried to teach him to come when you call. If he's reliable most of the time, great – use the information here to reinforce what he has already learned and to improve his performance. But if he's not exactly spot-on when you holler out the door, you need to rethink your strategy and start over. This training will go more smoothly if you treat the recall as a new behavior you are teaching rather than as a faulty one you're repairing.

To make it "new," find a different word to use to call your dog. If you've been yelling "Come" while your dog continues to sniff the bunny trails in the yard, start over with "Here." Your dog ignores "Come," but he has not learned to ignore "Here." The hardest part will be retraining yourself to use the right word.
  1. Be consistent. Always use the same word to call your dog. If you play the obedience lottery with different words like "come," "come here," "here," "get over here,"or "get your butt over here," you will probably lose more often than you win.
  2. Be concise. Do not call more than once unless you want to teach your dog to ignore you. If he doesn't come when you call, go back as many steps in training as you need to. Be patient! A reliable recall is not learned or taught overnight.
  3. Be generous. Reward your dog every time he comes when called. At first, the rewards should be big ones – a special treat, a jackpot sometimes. Eventually, you can scale back to an ear scratch and praise, with intermittent treats.
  4. Be smart. Never, ever let your dog off his leash in an unfenced area if he doesn't come every single time you call him, despite the squirrels square dancing nearby. Even if you think he's reliable, be extremely cautious. I know of more than one very obedient dog who was killed the one and only time he didn't come when called.
  5. Be prepared. Until your dog is very, very reliable, don't call him if you are not in a position to enforce the command. If you aren't sure he will come when you call him, put him on a leash or long line before he goes out in the rain so that you can get him back in.
  6. Be happy. Never call your dog to you in anger or to do something to him that he won't like. If you need to put drops in his ears or put him in his crate for a while, go get him instead of calling him. Coming to you should always be safe and wonderful for your dog.
As with many behaviors, you can use a combination of techniques to teach and reinforce the recall. You can use capturing and shaping techniques (the simplest method) to reinforce your dog's natural inclination to come to you, or you can lure him.

Teaching Recall Step-by-Step

Capturing and Shaping
  1. Carry treats or part of your dog's daily kibble allotment. When your dog comes to you without any prompting, mark that behavior and reward him, sometimes with a treat, sometimes with a belly rub or ear massage.
  2. After you have done this a number of times, your dog will probably begin to check in with you regularly. When he's on his way to you and appears to be committed, you can begin to use your cue word: "Rowdy, come!"
  3. If your dog tends to stop and sniff or travel a zigzag path to get to you, don't call him – just continue to reward him when he gets to you on his own. If you add the cue when your dog is not performing reliably, you simply teach him to ignore the word. But the rewards – treats, play, scratches – still reinforce the idea that coming to you is a good thing.
Luring
  1. Begin with your puppy or dog on leash or in a small fenced area or room where he can't get too far from you. In a happy voice, say "Rowdy, come!" Then act silly, walk or run the other way, or crouch down – whatever you need to do to make your dog curious and encourage him to come to you.
  2. When you start, mark his first steps toward you with your marker. As he learns to respond reliably to the recall cue, wait until he's closer to you to mark his behavior so that eventually you use the marker only when he's within reach of you.
  3. Reward him after you mark his movement toward you – give him a treat, play with him, whatever makes him happy. Then let him go back to what he was doing – you don't want him to associate responding to the recall with the end of his fun.
  4. Repeat the process two or three times, then quit for this session. Practice recalls several times a day, and use "real life" opportunities such as doggy dinner time to reinforce the command.
  5. You can make a game of teaching the recall by having household members stand in a circle, calling your dog back and forth and rewarding him. Just make sure that only one person calls at a time.

"Sit" Command

The sit – meaning "put your tail end on the ground" – is a useful command in many situations. For one thing, it gives you a means of telling your dog to control himself when he's excited or when you're out and about meeting neighbors, watching cars and bicycles go by, or visiting the vet.

The sit also provides an alternative behavior when your rambunctious pooch is doing something you don't want him to do. By telling him to sit when you think he is about to do something you don't like, you turn a negative behavior to a positive one and reinforce him for being a "good dog."

A dog who understands the sit command also can be reassured in stressful situations – if you tell him to sit, he knows that you're in control of the situation and he's relieved of having to make a decision or take action. If you plan to compete with your dog in obedience, rally, or agility, nice quick sits are indispensable.

If you're like most dog owners, you're probably thinking, "Oh, Rowdy already knows how to sit on command. He always sits for his dinner." Good for Rowdy! But does he remain sitting until you release him? Does he sit on command no matter where he is or what's happening around him? Does he sit when you tell him just once?

Many pet dogs will sit for a second or two, often for food or a tennis ball toss, then pop right back up and resume whatever they were doing before. That's a start, but if Rowdy won't sit the first time you tell him no matter what and stay sitting until you release him, he isn't really trained to sit on command. This section will show you how to get a reliable sit every time.
 
Before You Start

You can capture your dog's spontaneous sits by marking and rewarding them, or you can shape the sit by marking and rewarding closer and closer approximations of a complete sit, but those techniques take time, especially if your dog is not yet very familiar with the "mark-and-treat" game. You also could try to model the sit by pushing down on your dog's hips to force him into position, but I don't recommend that for a couple of reasons.

First, if you position your dog, he doesn't develop the reaction to the command and the muscle memory that enables him eventually to respond automatically. He may learn to rely on the physical signal of your hand on his posterior rather than the verbal command, or if you teach one, a hand signal.

Another reason I don't recommend butt-pushing is that your dog's natural response to pressure is to exert his own pressure in the opposite direction. You push, he pushes back. You pull, he pulls back. Why have a shoving contest when you can work together? Worse still, you could injure your dog's spine or hips by pushing down on them.

Luring, on the other hand, is a good technique for teaching the sit command.
 
Teaching "Sit" Step-by-Step
  1. Begin with your dog on leash or confined in a small space. Hold a treat in front of his nose, but don't let him take it.
  2. Slowly raise the treat enough to clear the top of his head, and move it back over his head toward his tail. The laws of physics will take over, and as his head comes up to keep track of the treat, his fanny will approach the ground.
  3. As your dog folds his hind legs to sit, tell him "Sit." When his rear end is on the floor, mark and give him the treat. Then release him.
  4. Repeat this exercise three or four times per session.
A sloppy sit, in which your dog rolls one hip sideways instead of sitting squarely on his "butt bones," is probably no big deal for most pets. But if you plan to train your dog for competition, it's a good idea to insist on nice square sits from the start.

To teach your dog that "sit" means "sit squarely on your butt," be sure to mark and reward only nice, square sits. That way, your dog will learn that the only position that counts for this command is the straight, square sit.

As your dog learns to respond reliably to the sit command, you can up the ante if you want to. Reward him only for faster and faster responses. Have him hold the sit longer before you reward him.

Material adapted from Training Your Dog for Life (T.F.H. Publications, 2009), used by permission.
 
Copyright © 2012 Nylabone
 

Also, see:

Jumat, 14 September 2012

Veterinary Integrity

Here's a great article about things I have experienced myself...hope you find it informative! –Kim

Bottom Line Blurs Vet Practices

By: Christine Agro
January 3, 2008

Imagine if, every time you went to the doctor, you were given vaccinations that you don't need – vaccinations that offer no benefit but all of the risks of harmful side effects. Or you were given medications with no explanation or information provided. Or tests were being done for no reason.

Now imagine that you can't speak and you have no way to tell those who care for you that those vaccinations make you feel sick; you don't want those tests; and the medicine is causing more harm than good.

That's exactly what many of our cat and dog friends experience. We bring our best friend to the veterinarian with unquestioned trust and faith that our vet has our animal's best interest at heart, but according to Veterinarian Dr. James Busby, author of How to Afford Veterinary Care Without Mortgaging the Kids, his profession is suffering from a serious lapse in judgment and ethics that is rooted in making money.

It's Now About Money

Dr. Busby, who has been a practicing vet since 1966, loves his work and comes from a family of Veterinarians, but admits if he had to practice the way vets practice today, he would not enter the profession. Dr. Busby feels "the profession has slowly turned from what was once an honest, caring one to a situation where many clinics and doctors are interested more in the bottom line, than what is necessary and best for your pet."

If you thought the veterinary world had escaped the "bottom line" mentality of the Medical Community, you are wrong. The world of veterinary medicine has become equally entangled with Drug and Insurance Companies. The result is not only rising costs for the animal
guardian, but also unnecessary treatments, over-the-top testing and over-vaccination for the animals.

Dr. Busby says, "Veterinarians today seem to assume they have the OK to run every test and perform any and every procedure on your animal they can, unless you tell them differently. Then, they usually get irate and try to shame you for being a non-loving pet owner."

Using Guilt and Pressure

Veterinarians are great at using guilt and pressure to strip animal guardians of their power. They can be brusque, condescending and intimidating, and in the end, the animal guardian, wanting to do whatever they can to support their animal friend, goes along with whatever the vet says.

The only way to change this is for animal guardians to become as well informed about their animal's care as they are about their own. Until recently, Vets have held an unquestionable "high moral" mark where guardians assumed that whatever a vet wants to do must be in the
best interest of the animal, but that unquestionable morality is gone now.

Too Many Vaccines...Too Often

Let's start with vaccinations. The standard operating procedure is for animals to receive a multitude of vaccinations on a regular schedule. Most animal guardians don't question the vaccination schedule. If the vet says it's needed, then it must be. For those who do question it, they are met with hostility or condescension or frightened with the horrors of what will happen if an animal isn't vaccinated regularly. And in several cases, they have been asked to find another vet altogether.

But here's the truth about all animal vaccines: The drug manufacture's label determines the frequency of revaccination. There is nothing scientific about the current animal vaccination schedule. Neither the FDA nor the USDA requires drug companies to prove the maximum immunity conferred; they only require that immunity be conferred for the duration of their testing – which means, if the drug company tests for one year, the label states vaccinate yearly.

This manufacturer's recommendation ultimately influenced rabies laws in each and every state across the country. Those laws are not based in scientific study, but rather on the research done by drug companies necessary to get approval for their drugs.

It has been proven as well that vaccine boosters do not increase immunity. Once the body has immunity, that same immunity will knock out the virus in the vaccine, leaving your animal to experience none of the benefits from the vaccine but all of the risks from the adjuvants, and leaving the guardian to pay for something that does nothing.

Cancer from a Vaccine

Kris Christine, Founder of The Rabies Challenge Fund Trust and vaccine reform activist, stated during a recent interview that this practice fits the definition of fraud. Christine joined this fight when her own dog Meadow developed an injection site sarcoma with the needle mark visible in the center of the tumor. After her vet informed her that Meadow most likely had immunity to rabies for life, and carelessly let it slip that it was the distemper shot Christine should really watch out for, as that one had many side effects and was ultimately unnecessary for older dogs, Christine jumped into action.

Since, she has had the rabies vaccination requirement revised in her home state of Maine, extending it to every three years; challenged the state to introduce a veterinary disclosure law that was defeated, and has started the Rabies Challenge Fund Trust along with Dr. W. Jean Dodds, a highly noted Veterinarian for her work and opinion on vaccine reform. The Rabies Challenge Fund Trust seeks to prove through a challenge study that the rabies vaccine confers immunity for seven years.

Immunity Lasts Much Longer

Dr. Ronald Schultz, who is also involved in The Rabies Challenge Fund Trust, has already demonstrated through serology (blood testing) that the Rabies vaccine lasts at least 7 years. He's also demonstrated that the distemper vaccine lasts at least 15 years, parvovirus at least 7 years and the adenovirus at least 9 years.

By now, you are beginning to see that there are two roots to this issue: (1) the drug manufacturers who are not required to test for maximum immunity conferred and (2) the veterinarians that go along with the recommendation of the drug companies without question.

Another advocate for the animals is Dr. Bob Rogers. He has been challenging his profession for more than 15 years about the vaccination schedule and has numerous complaints raised against him by fellow veterinarians who claim his information is impacting their practice. Dr. Roger's Web site offers insight, support and guidance for animal guardians trying to figure out what is in the best interest of their animals.

Vaccinations are not the only area where Veterinary care has become more about the bottom line than about the health and wellness of the animal. Flea and tick prevention as well as heartworm prevention have added another layer of continual revenue stream for vets and the drug companies.

Just recently, a direct mail company was promoting their services by citing the example of a veterinarian that had conducted a mail campaign for flea and tick preventative medication. The campaign occurred in December and the veterinarian was ecstatic that he had brought in $300,000 dollars in flea and tick medication sales in one month during the middle of winter.

Most topical flea and tick medications are neurotoxins designed to sever the nervous system of the fleas and ticks, hence killing them. If you read the package instructions, you'll find information to this effect: "Wash hands immediately should you come in contact with this product." How does that make sense? We put this product on our animal's skin, but we are warned to wash immediately? The skin absorbs anything that is put on it. That toxin is drawn right into the bloodstream.

In 2000, the FDA approved Pfizer's NADA (new animal drug application) 141-152 for the drug Revolution (selamectin) which address fleas, ticks, heartworm, hookworms and ear mites all in one. This drug was tested for a duration of anywhere from 3 days to 10 months before receiving approval. Drug companies test to determine the effectiveness of Revolution, not to identify any long-term side effects of continuous use year after year. If side effects occur during testing, they are only a concern if the effect is wide spread; otherwise the drug is approved. In the case of the testing of Revolution, a number of animals in the clinical and field studies experienced vomiting, injection site hair matting and in a few cases developed anorexia.

In 2002, the FDA approved Bayer Corporation's Advantage Duo® (imidacloprid/ivermectin) for the use on dogs in the prevention of fleas and heartworm (see NADA 141-208). This drug was tested, at most, for five months and most tests consisted of once monthly application. Again the concern was demonstrating that the drug works, not identifying any possible long-term side effects from repetitive use over the many years of a dog's life.

According to Dr. Busby, year round treatment for heartworms is unnecessary in areas where the temperature does not remain consistently above 70°F. Heartworm requires mosquitoes; without them, your animal is at no risk of contracting heartworm. And more importantly, a little known fact is this: "Heartgard, or its active ingredient ivermectin, if given once a month to a known infected dog for 18 months, will cure an animal of the infection."

Even more important to using pharmaceuticals to cure heartworm is using natural remedies to prevent fleas, ticks and other parasites from hosting on our animals. A healthy animal is less likely to be the host for parasites. A healthy animal requires a nutrient rich diet (no processed kibble) and natural support such as apple cider vinegar. Diane Stein, author of The Natural Remedy Book for Cats and Dogs, states that by simply adding apple cider vinegar to your animals diet daily, you will greatly boost the immune system and your animal will be less likely to have fleas or intestinal worms.

One other area of concern is that of testing. It seems whenever we bring our animals to the vet, some sort of test needs to be done. According to Dr. Busby, many of these tests are unnecessary and not only cause your animal stress and anxiety, but also cost you money you don't need to be spending.

In the case of testing for heartworm before administering heartworm medication, Dr. Busby says, " Veterinarians imply that it's dangerous to give the preventative to an infected dog. I am not aware of a product currently being used as a monthly preventive that can't be given to a dog infected with heartworm." He feels vets want to make a big deal out of discovering "heartworm" so they can "cure" it and charge you more.

Dr. Busby also feels Pre-surgical screening prior to elective surgery is unwarranted. This screen entails a complete blood count and organ evaluation test prior to surgery. It could also involve x-rays and heart evaluation. His theory is that Veterinary medicine is indeed moving in the same direction of Human medicine, with vets feeling the need to "cover" themselves should anything go wrong.

In short, Dr. Busby asserts that the majority of problems in surgery come from improperly administering anesthesia. If the vet is competent, the chances of complications are nominal and don't warrant such over the top testing.

Dr. Busby's advice: "Find an older vet with a lot of experience and forego the testing on routine surgeries... That way, you will not be paying extra to prevent a problem that would much more likely be a result of doctor's ineptitude, rather than due to a weakness with the animal's system."

He goes on to warn "that office staffs are often coached to approach you in relays, trying to talk you into the pre-surgical screening. It's a moneymaker and they will try to imply you are risking your pet's life if it isn't done."

Although veterinarians have enjoyed a long "honeymoon" period, the honeymoon is officially over. Veterinarians have demonstrated over and over that they no longer deserve our trust and faith. For those vets that do have the best interest of your animals at heart, their response to your questioning and to your decisions for what is best for your animal should be one of understanding and support. For those that do not have the best interest of your animals at heart, a hostile response can be expected but should not be tolerated.

As guardians to the animals in our lives, it is becoming more and more essential that we educate ourselves about the healing power of animals, and that we understand that conventional western medicine strips our animals of their natural healing power. Seek natural solutions, feed a healthy diet and remember that all beings need a way to transition from their physical form. When our animal friend gets sick, our initial reaction, which most veterinarians fuel, is to do whatever is possible to make our animals better. The greatest gift we can give our animal friends is respect of their process, which more often than not means letting them transition how they choose.

When your animal came into your life, you made an agreement with them, whether you were conscious of it or not. That agreement: to be their voice and their advocate. You can no longer simply accept the word of your vet. You must do your research and educate yourself on what your animal truly needs to live a healthy, happy life.

Source: Natural News
© 2012 Natural News Network


Dr. Andrew Jones says:

Heal Your Pet at Home!

Is the bottom line "blurring" some veterinary practices? Yes, in my opinion ... especially those practices that pay their veterinarians on a commission, such as most of the corporate practices.

The point in all of this is to encourage you to be involved. Take charge of your dog or cat's health care. Question what is advised. Where to start:

  1. Complimentary information on my newsletter and blog ... it has helped many pet owners.
  2. My bestselling book, Veterinary Secrets Revealed.

This is THE manual for at home holistic pet health care. PLUS the price is NOW reduced, and YOU can grab a copy for $47: CLICK HERE!


Dr. Andrew Jones, DVM has been a practicing Veterinarian for almost 20 years. He is a strong advocate of Natural Pet Health Care, and knows that the most important way to heal our pets and prevent disease is through proper nutrition. He developed Ultimate Canine to give our dogs that extra advantage – something that will provide them with everything they need to develop stronger immune systems to fight disease, heal sore or stiff joints, and help them live longer, happier lives. Dr. Andrew Jones' main focus is on alternative, non-traditional remedies for pets. His interest in alternative pet medicine culminated in the writing of his book, Veterinary Secrets Revealed.


Also, see: The High Costs of Pet Care

Jumat, 07 September 2012

PETA's Kill Propaganda

PETA is in the news...again. –Kim

PETA Sends a "Thank You" for Killing Shelter Pets... Unbelievable!

by Douglas Anthony Cooper
9/04/2012

 
When the No Kill shelter in Shelby County, Kentucky, recently announced that they had run out of space – and were hence going to have to start killing healthy dogs and cats – officials received a nice basket of gourmet cookies, with a note signed by PETA: "Thank you for doing the right thing for animals."

Surely, I'm joking here. This must be a weak stab at satire. Many people have written about Ingrid Newkirk's vicious pet-killing program – her organization has personally liquidated over 27,000 animals – but PETA has always responded with hurt and outrage (and lawyers). People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals don't celebrate killing, goes the lie – they see it as a regrettable necessity.

Surely Newkirk wouldn't be so foolish as to express her ghoulish agenda in this way, as a naked statement accompanied by a gift. No group of self-styled vegans would publicly wed their name to the Pro-Kill Equation: butchery = the right thing.

Well, Nathan Winograd (who developed the somewhat different No Kill Equation) reported on this in detail, and I suggest you examine his photographic evidence. A lovely basket of "Allison's Gourmet Cookies" – shipped fresh from California – with a handwritten note signed: "The PETA Staff." If you'd like further evidence, and to read the reverse side of this charming note, Shelby County No Kill Mission has produced an affecting video about the episode.


To understand just how grotesque this is, you have to know a little bit about Shelby. This is not simply one of America's fifty-one No Kill communities. It has a special significance: Last year's save rate sent Shelby County to the top – it is now one of the most successful examples of No Kill in the nation.

The last animal killed for lack of space in Shelby County was on May 27, 2008. Since then, they've enjoyed a save rate that is almost precisely the inverse of PETA's kill rate. Whereas PETA slaughters 97% of the pets delivered to their hellish "Shelter of Last Resort," in 2011 Shelby saved 98.52% of the cats and 94.46% of the dogs in their care.

Shelby County runs an open admission shelter: They do not turn animals away. They have an impeccable history – despite PETA's dire predictions, their No Kill community has never been associated with hoarding or animal abuse of any kind. (In fact, none of the legitimate No Kill organizations has been guilty of these crimes, but that's another story.) The Shelby program has a tiny budget: $147,000. Compare that to PETA's annual plunder: over $32.3 million from unsuspecting donors.

While we're talking numbers, I should mention Shelby's 2011 live release rate for creatures other than dogs and cats (rabbits, etc.): a sterling 99.5%. This is a relatively small category – just a handful of animals – but I'm one of those people who believes that even a single rabbit matters. And in this category, PETA managed a live release rate of 7%. (For the mathematically challenged, that means that in 2011, 93% of these animals did not survive their visit to PETA's headquarters in Norfolk.)

This underfunded county in Kentucky is PETA's worst nightmare. Shelby has proven that even in the most difficult circumstances, Ingrid Newkirk's blood-drenched program is completely unnecessary.

In short, Shelby matters.

Hence the grateful cookie basket: If this county starts killing again, PETA is made to look like a respectable organization – one that embraces hard but necessary choices – as opposed to a cult of eager and unrepentant pet killers.

Now, in some respects Shelby County has deviated from the No Kill Equation as defined by Nathan Winograd. Notably, whenever the shelter has become full, Shelby has responded by presenting the community with deadlines: Unless a certain number of animals are adopted by this date, the shelter will be forced to kill. The tactic has worked thus far, but goes contrary to what the No Kill Community stands for, which is to eliminate even the threat of violence towards animals.

Worse: it brings out the vampires.

The occasion of PETA's celebration was the most credible threat thus far: the prospect of a particularly impressive No Kill shelter failing, and reverting to the barbarism of the status quo. Behold! No Kill is a utopian illusion, and we are righteous vegans with hypodermics. Have some cookies.

I looked into Allison's Gourmet, by the way, to determine just how much a basket of their vegan delicacies would set you back. This is not to suggest that the company is complicit in this revolting display: They seem like sincere people who genuinely care about animals; I like to think they had no idea that their product was being used as a prize for killing pets.

Allison's pastries look pretty great, in fact: "Exquisite Treats for Gourmet Palates." As you can imagine, they are not inexpensive.
A basket of Allison's vegan cookies and candies costs between $85 (for the "Classic Elegance Gift Basket)" and $415 (for the "Ultimate Nirvana Gift Basket.") Shipping is between $16.95 and $60.65. Add a $4 chill pack, to keep things fresh.

It is just the kind of expansive gesture you can expect from Ingrid Antoinette, who famously knows some of the world's most special and well-heeled vegan celebrities. Let them eat cookies.

I do hope that PETA includes this expense in their annual budget. Thankfully, not all of the cash milked from innocent donors goes towards butchering animals. Some of that 32.3 million goes towards pastries that celebrate other people butchering animals. It's important for you to know this, if you're planning on sending Ingrid a cheque.

PETA's kill propaganda can be extraordinarily effective, but this particular horror story has a happy ending. Thanks in large part to the aid of Shelby County No Kill Mission, a private group, the shelter did not kill even one creature: Despite their announcement, they found a place for every single pet.

Oh, and Shelby officials have decided to discontinue the shock tactic of threatening that animals will be killed if homes aren't found. This is a welcome decision. Of course the most important thing is to stop killing, but it's also crucial to point out that PETA's vicious practice is not even an option. It is not something you contemplate, much less threaten. The decent citizens of Shelby do not kill dogs and cats for this simple reason: They are not the kind of people who butcher pets.

The shelter in Shelby, by the way, is hindered not only by their shoe-string budget, but by their relatively inaccessible location. If you appreciate what Shelby County is accomplishing – against all odds, for some of the nation's most vulnerable shelter animals – I strongly suggest that you send a donation to Shelby County No Kill Mission.

The shelter does not in fact require exquisite gourmet cookies, but they could desperately use pet food, bedding, cat litter, laundry detergent. That hundred dollars you'd spend on even the cheapest basket of vegan delicacies could buy, for instance, four microwavable heating discs – crucial for keeping puppies warm on cold nights, after they haven't been killed. Send a healthy contribution to the good people of Shelby, and attach a note saying, "Thank you for doing the right thing."

You are no doubt wondering what happened to PETA's expensive gift. This I am happy to report. In a rare and inspired act, where justice does in fact rise to the level of poetry, the cookies were given to adopters as a token of thanks.

Can't you just imagine Ingrid seething? All of that good money – precious donations, for God's sake – put towards saving shelter animals.

Source: TheHuffingtonPost - Canada
Copyright © 2012 TheHuffingtonPost.com, Inc.


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Rabu, 05 September 2012

How Well is Your Dog Groomed?

Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it interesting! –Kim

How to Groom Your Dog at Home

The reason one should groom his/her dog is simple – your dog's physical state influences the way he feels and the way you look at your dog. Extreme cases, where lack of proper care, cleaning and grooming can directly affect the behavior of your dog, are not rare.

Proper grooming not only infuses a healthy glow to your dog's appearance, but also helps develop his self-esteem; while it makes you a very proud parent, when you show off your dog to others.

The first step involved in dog grooming is: Brushing!
 
Brushing has been universally acknowledged by expert dog groomers as the single most important step in grooming.
 
The benefits of brushing are many. To name a few:
  • Better blood circulation
  • Shinier and healthier coat
  • Better bonding

Even if you know how crucial brushing is for your dog's health and well-being, we all know that there is a right way and a wrong way of doing anything. And without doubt, you would like to do everything the RIGHT way when it comes to your dog.

Yes, there's a method to follow while brushing your dog.

Here are FIVE steps to successfully brushing your dog that will prove to be extremely useful:
  • Brush against the growth of the hair first with a slicker brush and then with a medium or wide-toothed comb.
  • The slicker brush removes all the loose hair and the comb takes care of the tangles.
  • Brush your dog along the hair growth and make sure you reach the skin as you brush his way.
  • Then use a flea comb over the coat to get the fleas and remove any remaining tangles. Part the coat and start from the root and then comb through.
  • If your dog's paw pads are hairy, then clip them using electric clippers. Do not clip the hair in between the pads. Clip only the excess hair.
Brush your dog's hairs to prevent it from matting. Matting can be a very painful experience.

Regular brushing untangles the matted hairs on your dog's coat. Since this is a risky job to do, the best way out is to prevent them from forming in the first place. And doing this is simple: just brush and comb your dog regularly. If and when you see any mats or tangles, use a detangle solution and a medium-toothed comb.

Don't wait until your dog is dirty or matted to introduce him to grooming. That would make him associate the experience with unpleasantness. Moreover, many dogs learn to see their routine brushing as an alternate form of petting, i.e. another source of affection and attention.

Subscribe to this FREE dog grooming mini course and start grooming your dog all by yourself right from the comfort of your home, today.

Copyright © 2009 TrainPetDog.com
  

Sabtu, 01 September 2012

Just a Dog?

A very sweet video... –Kim

Just a Dog?

Source: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRgbO5Db9Ns


Just a dog?...

A wise man once said to me: "Love is never wasted."

To those who don't understand, I only ask that you leave room for others like me to follow their hearts and love God's creatures while we're here on earth.

Maybe it is "just a dog," but they can love and they can feel pain. And in God's mercy, I can't just sit by and do nothing. I can be there for them and love them. It's the least I can do.

– Kim



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"Just a Dog?" poem