Is Your Dog a "Bully"?

Here's a great article about "bully" dogs...hope you find it helpful! –Kim

Why (and How) You Should Intervene if Your Dog Picks on Others

By Pat Miller
May 2006

You can find them everywhere – at dog parks and doggie daycare centers, in dog training classes, in your neighbor's yards ... perhaps even in your own home. "They" are canine bullies – dogs who overwhelm their potential playmates with overly assertive and inappropriate behaviors, like the out-of-control human bully on the school playground.

Jasper is a nine-month-old Labradoodle from a puppy mill, currently enrolled in one of my Peaceable Paws Good Manners classes. He was kept in a wire cage on a Pennsylvania farm until he was four months old, when his new owners purchased him. Katy Malcolm, the class instructor, asked me to sit in on the first end-of-class play session with Jasper because she was concerned that his lack of early socialization could present a challenge. She was right.

Four shots of the same playground bully, taken over a 20-minute period at a dog park. In the first photo, the Boxer-mix bully
has blindsided a dog who just entered the park. In the next three, she focuses her attention on the same victim, a
young Lab-mix. She clearly enjoys holding him down as a variety of other dogs come over to investigate.

Sam was a 10-week-old Golden Retriever puppy, well bred, purchased from a responsible breeder by knowledgeable dog owners who immediately enrolled him in one of my Peaceable Paws Puppy Good Manners classes to get him started on the right paw. Sam unexpectedly also turned out to be a challenge at his first end-of-class puppy play session.

These two dogs had considerably different backgrounds, but when it came time to play, both dogs exhibited bullying behaviors: Jasper because he never had a chance to learn how to interact appropriately with other dogs; Sam because – well – who knows? Genetics, maybe? Early experiences in his litter, maybe? Regardless of the reasons, both dogs required special handling if they were ever to have a normal canine social life.

Bullying Defined
In her excellent book, Fight!, dog trainer and author Jean Donaldson defines bullying dogs (not to be confused with "Pitbull-type dogs") as those dogs for whom "roughness and harassment of non-consenting dogs is quite obviously reinforcing." Like the human playground bully, the bully dog seems to get a kick out of tormenting less-assertive members of his playgroup. Donaldson says, "They engage at it full tilt, with escalating frequency, and almost always direct it at designated target dogs."

When released with permission to "go play," the poorly socialized Labradoodle, Jasper, immediately pounced on the back of Mesa, an easy-going and confident Rottweiler who was playing nicely with Bo, a submissive but exuberant Golden Retriever. Jasper barked insistently, nipping at Mesa's back as she tried to ignore his social ineptness. Finally, fed up with his boorish behavior, she flashed her teeth at him one time, at which point he decided Bo was a better target for his attentions. Indeed, Bo found him overwhelming, a response that emboldened Jasper to pursue him even more energetically.

We intervened in his play with Mesa several times by picking up Jasper's dragging leash and giving him a time-out when his behavior was completely unacceptable, then releasing him to "Go play!" when he settled a bit. Each time we released him he promptly re-escalated to an unacceptable level of bullying, until Mesa herself told him to "Back off, Bud!" with a quick flash of her teeth.

Human-controlled time-outs, however, made no impression on Jasper. The canine corrections were more effective, but didn't stop the behavior; they only redirected it to a less-capable victim. Because Bo wasn't assertive enough to back Jasper off, we ended the play as soon as Jasper turned his attentions to the softer dog.

Bully #2
Like Jasper's preferred victim, Sam's favorite bullying target was also a Rottweiler – not a breed you'd expect to find wearing an invisible "bite me!" sign. Max was a pup about Sam's own age, who outweighed Sam considerably but was no match for the smaller pup's intensity.

Sam had given us no indication during class that he had a play problem. In fact, he was a star performer for his clicks and treats. However, when playtime arrived his demeanor changed from an attentive "What can I do to get you to click the clicker?" pupil to an "I'm tough and you just try to stop me!" bully.

Several seconds after the two pups began frolicking together, Sam suddenly pinned Max to the ground with a ferocious snarl, then released him briefly, just to pin him again in short order. Needless to say, we also intervened quickly in that relationship!

Appropriate Play
Owners often have difficulty distinguishing between appropriate and inappropriate play. Some may think that perfectly acceptable play behavior is bullying because it involves growling, biting, and apparently pinning the playmate to the ground. Appropriate play can, in fact, look and sound quite ferocious.

The difference is in the response of the playmate. If both dogs appear to be having a good time and no one's getting hurt, it's usually fine to allow the play to continue. Thwarting your dog's need to play by stopping him every time he engages another dog, even if it's rough play, can lead to other behavior problems.

With a bully, the playmate clearly does not enjoy the interaction. The softer dog may offer multiple appeasement and deference signals that are largely or totally ignored by the canine bully. The harassment continues, or escalates.

Any time one play partner is obviously not having a good time, it's wise to intervene. A traumatic play experience can damage the softer dog's confidence and potentially induce a life-long fear-aggression or "Reactive Rover" response – definitely not a good thing!

Some bullies seem to spring from the box full-blown. While Sam had, no doubt, already been reinforced for his bullying by the response of his softer littermates, he must have been born with a strong, assertive personality in order for the behavior to be as pronounced as it was by the tender age of 10 weeks. Jasper, on the other hand, may have been a perfectly normal puppy, but months of social deprivation combined with a strong desire to be social turned him into an inadvertent bully.

There can certainly be a learned component of any bullying behavior. As Jean Donaldson reminds us, the act of harassing a "non-consenting dog" is in and of itself reinforcing for bullies.

By definition, a behavior that's reinforced continues or increases – hence the importance of intervening with a bully at the earliest possible moment, rather than letting the behavior become more and more ingrained through reinforcement. As with most behavior modification, prognosis is brightest if the dog is young, if he hasn't had much chance to practice the unwanted behavior, and if he has not been repeatedly successful at it.

Oops!
Successful modification of bullying behavior requires attention to several elements:

• Skilled application of intervention tools and techniques: Leashes and long lines, no-reward markers (NRMs) and time-outs;
• Excellent timing of intervention: Application of NRMs and time-outs;
• Reinforcement for appropriate behavior: Play continues or resumes when dog is calm or playing nicely;
• Selection of appropriate play partners: Dogs who are not intimidated or traumatized by bullying behavior.

While working to decrease or extinguish your dog’s bullying, you might have to let him
drag a short leash, or keep him on a long line while playing. This enables you to stop
his bullying the moment it starts. Keep him on a “time out” until he is calm.

The most appropriate human intervention is the use of "negative punishment," in which the dog's behavior makes a good thing go away. In this case, the most appropriate negative punishment is a time-out. Used in conjunction with a "no-reward marker" (NRM) or "punishment" marker, this works best for bullying behavior.

The opposite of the clicker (or other reward marker, such as the word, "Yes!"), the NRM says, "That behavior made the good stuff go away." With bullying, the good stuff is the opportunity to play with other dogs. Just as the clicker always means a treat is coming, the NRM always means the behavior stops immediately or good stuff goes away; it's not to be used repeatedly as a threat or warning.

My preferred NRM, the one I teach and use if/when necessary, is the word "Oops!" rather than the word "No!" which is deliberately used to shut down behavior – and as such is usually delivered firmly or harshly and unfortunately often followed by physical punishment. "Oops!" simply means, "Make another behavior choice or there will be an immediate loss of good stuff." An NRM is to be delivered in a non-punitive tone of voice; it's almost impossible to say "Oops!" harshly.

Timing is just as important with your NRM as it is with your reward marker. It says, "Whatever you were doing the exact instant you heard the 'Oops!' is what earned your time-out." You'll use it the instant your dog's bully behavior appears, and if the bullying continues for more than a second or two more, grasp his leash or drag-line (a long, light line attached to his collar) and remove him from play. Don't repeat the NRM. Give him at least 20 seconds to calm down, more if he needs it, then release him to go play again. If several time-outs don't dampen the behavior even slightly, make them longer and make sure he's calm prior to returning to play.

If a half-dozen time-outs have absolutely no effect, end the play session for the day. If the NRM does stop the bullying, thank your dog for responding, and allow him to continue playing under direct supervision as his reward.

Another sometimes-effective approach to bully modification requires access to an appropriate "neutral dog" – a dog like Mesa who is confident enough to withstand the bully's assault without being traumatized or responding with inappropriate aggression in return. A flash of the pearly whites as a warning is fine. A full-out dogfight is not.

It's important to watch closely during interactions with the bully. Any sign the neutral dog is becoming unduly stressed by the encounters should bring the session to an immediate halt. A neutral dog may be able to modify your bully's behavior, and have it transfer to other dogs – or not. If not, you may be able to find one or two sturdy, neutral dogs who can be your dog's play companions, and leave the softer dogs to gentler playpals. Not all dogs get along with all other dogs.

Outcomes
Sam's owners were exceptionally committed to helping their pup overcome his inappropriate play behaviors. We continued to allow him to play with one or two other sturdy, resilient puppies, using an NRM and his leash to calmly but firmly remove him every time his play intensity increased. We moved him away from the other pups until he was calm, then allowed him to resume his play. By the end of his first six-week class he was playing appropriately most of the time with one or two other pups, under direct supervision. After two more six-week sessions he played well with a stable group of four other dogs, under general supervision, without needing NRMs or time-outs.

The last time I saw Sam was an incidental encounter, at Hagerstown's Pooch Pool Plunge event. Every year when the city closes its community pool for the winter, they open it up on one Saturday for people to bring their dogs for a pooch pool party. Sam, now a full-grown adult dog, attended the Plunge at the end of Summer 2005, with more than 100 dogs in attendance. His behavior was flawless.

Jasper may have a longer road, but I'm optimistic that he'll come around as well. We plan to continue having him play with Mesa, as long as she's handling him as well as she did in last week's class. Between Mesa's canine corrections and our time-outs, we're hopeful that he'll learn appropriate social skills and be able to expand his social circle to other appropriate dogs. Is there a Pool Plunge in Jasper's future? We'll just have to wait and see.

Pat Miller, CPDT, WDJ's Training Editor, lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center.
 
Source: The Whole Dog Journal
© 2013 Belvoir Media Group, LLC

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Also, see:

• Basic Training Commands
• Dog Training at Home
• How to Litterbox Train Your Dog
• Ask a Vet Online

 

Common Dog Behavior Myths

Here's a great article about common myths...hope you find it informative! –Kim

14 Common Dog Behavior Myths Decoded

By Mikkel Becker
March 5, 2012

Although dog training has become more of a science than a craft in recent years, some persistent myths still mislead us when reading canine behavior. Don't let a myth harm your relationship with your pooch. Here, we dispel 14 common myths and look at the facts.

1. An old dog can't learn new tricks.

False. Old dogs not only learn new tricks but they thrive when trained. My late Pomeranian, Mr. Teddy, who was adopted at an estimated 10 to 13 years of age, was a training superstar in Vetstreet videos, which were filmed two weeks before he passed away. By the same token, older dogs without housetraining experience as puppies can successfully be housetrained. As long as a dog is mentally and physically capable of learning to perform a behavior and is properly motivated, it's entirely possible to train her. While intense agility training for Teddy was not realistic, teaching basic commands was.

2. A dog shouldn't sleep with you or be allowed on furniture, or she'll think she's the boss and will misbehave.

False. Just like humans, dogs simply want a comfortable place to lie down. If comfort can be combined with being next to their beloved human, whether it's right next to you on the couch, or even on top of your lap, then they're all for it. In rare cases, dogs will guard their sleeping and resting areas, and will show aggression when humans approach these sacred areas. This type of behavior will require remedial training. But for the average Rover, sleeping in bed or resting on the couch has no adverse behavioral effects.

3. When your dog has a potty accident, it's important to rub her nose in it to let her know what she did.

False. When you rub a dog's nose in her own mess, she often sees no association between that and her having had a potty accident. Nor does rubbing her nose in her accident teach her not to potty on the floor again. Instead, rubbing her nose in her accident teaches her that humans are dangerous and unpredictable, and she will likely begin to hide in safety by sneaking into another room to go to the bathroom, making housebreaking even more difficult.

4. A dog who cowers from people was likely abused in the past.

False. There are various reasons for dogs cowering, and not all of them are because a dog was abused. Commonly, the dog was not properly socialized or had negative experiences during her prime socialization period as a puppy. Genetics also play a role in the fearful dog. Other reasons for a dog to duck away might be that she has learned to dodge people who try to grab her collar, or she is uncomfortable with petting, such as having her ears handled. Unfortunately, well-meaning strangers often approach dogs by bending over the top of their heads and reaching down to pet, which will send timid dogs into a cowering position. A better way to approach is by getting into a kneeling position, with your body turned toward the side, and then inviting the dog to approach you. If you practice this method, it will be less likely to cause a canine to cower.

5. Shelter dogs have too much baggage. It's better to adopt a puppy to start with a clean slate.

False. Many shelter dogs are well-behaved pooches who, for an endless list of possible reasons, could not be kept by their original owners. Older shelter dogs make ideal candidates for people wanting to skip the puppy stages of chewing, potty training and mouthing. The interview process at most shelters also pairs canine candidates with the family setting that will best suit the dog's temperament, which can create cohesion from the beginning.

6. All dogs should enjoy being around other dogs. It's essential for dogs to go on outings with other dogs, such as at the dog park. If a dog doesn't enjoy other dogs, there is something wrong with her.

False. Not all people are social butterflies and neither are all dogs. Some dogs may prefer solitude and only a small, select group of people. Dogs also have their own preferences when it comes to other canines. Breeding can play a big role in their sociability, with terriers being notorious for contentiousness with other pooches. Other times, whether from lack of socialization as a puppy or simply an individual preference, dogs may not enjoy canine comradery. Even though plenty of dogs enjoy the dog park, not all of them enjoy the idea of dozens of other dogs frolicking around them and would instead prefer a quiet walk with their owners.

7. You should let dogs just fight it out when they get into a scuffle.

False (well, at least partly false). It's true that you should never get into the middle of a dog fight, because some of the most damaging dog bites occur when owners try to separate fighting dogs. There are some tactics you can use to break up the scuffle without actually getting in the middle of the fray. Try using water, a really loud noise, or even a distraction like grabbing a treat bag or using voice to direct them to do something else. Owners should do everything they can to prevent another fight in the future. Often dogs don't settle matters on their own, and fighting intensifies over time, especially with dogs in the same home. This calls for advanced training with the help of an animal behaviorist or a certified professional trainer.

8. My dog is trying to show she's in charge when she doesn't listen to me.

False. It's easy to attribute human motives like "getting even" or "being spiteful" to our dogs, but dogs don't have the same complex emotions as humans. The more realistic reasons why a dog doesn't do what's being asked is either because she doesn't understand what she's being asked to do, or the dog doesn't have the proper motivation to want to perform the behavior. For example, most dogs don't come when called because the payoff isn't worth it. When they do, they usually are put on a leash or taken into the house when they'd rather stay outside.

9. My dog knows she was bad after she goes potty in the house. Her guilty face says it all.

False. Dogs show a perceived "guilty face" not because they feel an actual emotion of guilt, but they are actually showing appeasement behaviors in response to their owners intimidating body language. Whether we want to or not, it's difficult not to display negative body language when we're upset with our pets. A 2009 study by researcher Alexandra Horowitz at Barnard College in New York revealed that the "guilty look" dogs display is solely attributed by humans and has no relation to whether the dog is actually responsible for an offense. The study found that dogs who had not actually eaten the forbidden treat, but were scolded by their misinformed owners for eating a treat, showed guiltier-looking body language than dogs who had actually eaten the forbidden treat. The guilty look is simply a response of the dog to her owner's behavior.

10. It's always the owner's fault when a dog misbehaves.

False. Most owners are well-meaning, but are simply misinformed or lack knowledge on how to train their dogs effectively. Blaming the owner for all of a dog's problems makes for good TV, but there are a myriad of reasons why a dog misbehaves, including lack of proper socialization or preventive training, or even the genetic tendencies of the dog. It's important for pet parents to push past feelings of shame or guilt; instead get started in the right direction with help from a pet professional using positive reinforcement methods.

11. Using treats for training is bribery, and the dog won't do the behavior later if you don't give her a treat.

False. It's true that dogs need motivation to perform a behavior. That said, the motivation doesn't always have to be a food-based reward. Dogs can be rewarded in many other ways. Reward them with playing, petting or getting to go outside. They can also be put on a random schedule of rewards with a lottery-ticket-like system so they never know when the payout will come. This system helps keep them motivated. For example: learning to walk on a loose leash may be taught in the beginning by using treats, but once the behavior is learned, treats can be phased out so that the only reward becomes getting to go on the walk itself.

12. When a dog chews up shoes or destroys furniture it's because she's punishing the owner.

False. Dogs chew on shoes, furniture and other human items not to punish their owners, but simply because it feels good on their teeth, it relieves boredom, releases energy and, in some cases, may indicate separation anxiety.

13. A dog can't really be happy unless she can run off-leash.

False. Leashes are made for a dog's safety. They should be perceived as tools that keep your dog from running into oncoming traffic, going up to unknown dogs or people, and prevent them from running way. Although regular off-leash play in a fenced area is essential for a dog's well-being, while out in public, dogs can learn to be perfectly content on a leash at their owner's side.

14. Dogs are great judges of people, so if a dog doesn't like someone, it must mean there is something wrong with that person.

False. In the majority of cases, dogs who react aggressively or fearfully to a person are not doing so out of a negative moral evaluation of the individual, but are responding out of their own self-preservation. With that said, there have been plenty of circumstances where pets have used an apparent sixth sense to pick up on cues that went unseen by their human and actually saved their human's life. However, the majority of dogs I see in my training practice are unfriendly with a person because they are reacting out of fear to a certain physical attribute, movement or the physical proximity of a person, and are not reacting based on any moral evaluation of the individual.

Source: VetStreet

© 2012 Vetstreet

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Also, see:

• Basic Training Commands
• How to Litterbox Train Your Dog
• Ask a Vet Online

 

Where Should the Puppy Sleep?

Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it helpful! –Kim

Brand New Puppy? Let Them Sleep Near You

by Sarah Wilson, Dog Expert
September 17, 2013

A trainer friend came in the door looking haggard. Her new client puppy cried off and on all night crated in her kitchen. "I'm exhausted" she said, stating the obvious.

She got a hug then this advice, "Put the puppy's crate next to your bed."

She looked surprised. "I've always heard I should let them cry it out." she stated.

That is common advice and I used to say it, too. I was wrong.

Allowing your new puppy to sleep near you for a week or so makes things epically easier for everyone. Here are the benefits:

• You sleep which is critical to you being the sort of puppy person you planned on being.
• You can hear when your pup gets restless so can take them to their potty area before the crate is wet or the pup is upset.
• Your pup gets to bond more to you.
• Your family and spouse isn't stressed by the constant crying.
• Ditto your neighbors, if you have some close by.
• Your puppy gets critical rest after the stress of changing homes, leaving the litter, etc.

The pup in this story had been spayed the week before at 8 weeks, been vaccinated, flown across the country, landed in a new home for two days, been given a heartworm preventative, flea and tick treated and wormed for parasites all before coming to my friend. All that totals up to an assault on her tiny system and I advised quiet and lots of sleep for the next few days, at least, to give her little body a chance to recover.

Once your new friend is sleeping through the night and is calmly crating during the day, then the crate can move to the kitchen. This is my standard routine now and it works great.

My most recent student, Button, was screaming her adorable lungs out when left alone day one, then crating quietly by day five. Having her next to my bed those first five days made life easier for both of us.

Now you know.

Enjoy!

PS - If you like my blogs, you'll love my e-mails.

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Also, see:

• How to Prepare for a Puppy
• Are You Ready for a Dog in Your Life?
• How to Litterbox Train Your Dog

 

Bathtime Fun!

Here's a really cute video that I thought I would pass on. –Kim

Bathtime Fun! Super Cute

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMuZdN84PJg

 

Dog Etiquette Rules

Here's some great advice that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it interesting! –Kim

Space Etiquette for Dogs

NEWSFLASH! Running up to another dog and ignoring requests to go away is not "friendly," it is rude. Just like people, DOGS NEED PERSONAL SPACE. If a stranger came up and put his hand on your body, you'd be allowed to step back, yell and push him away. Dogs have the same right to enforce their boundaries. Some dogs are called "reactive" because they are more sensitive than others. Reactive dogs are good dogs, they just need more distance and compassionate training. You can help them by honoring their need for personal space.

1. Never let your off-leash dog go up to an on-leash dog.
2. Lock retractable leashes when you see other dogs.
3. Ask before approaching or petting any dog.
4. Have compassion for people with shy or reactive dogs.

Please do not chase us. Let us pass without interaction, and keep your judgments to yourself.

Source: http://doggiedrawings.net/post/842176625
© 2011 Lili Chin

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7 Dog Etiquette Rules

By Janine Allen
May 24th, 2009

Wouldn't it be great if everyone else loved our dogs as much as we do? Increase the chances of this happening by following the etiquette rules listed below.

1. No matter how well trained your dog is, put him on a leash when near strangers. People will appreciate your respect for their safety and well-being.
2. Avoid approaching people or dogs directly when in public. Move off to the left or right to pass by; step off the curb if necessary. Fearful dogs and fearful people will be thankful.
3. Always, when there is a leash in hand, put a poop bag in your pocket. Carry three: one for you, a spare and one to share.
4. Leave your female dog at home when she is in season. Her pheromones will bring out the worst in otherwise well-behaved dogs.
5. Ask, and be specific, before letting your dog approach people or other dogs. "Is he friendly?" gives no warning to other dog owners that you are going to let your dog lunge forward.
6. When you have been invited to a home, event or activity, ask before bringing your dog.
7. Until your dog is trained not to jump on people, put him away when guests arrive. Let him out after guests have settled in. Leash or tether him if he tends to nose, poke or paw people for attention.

Your dog would want others to think as highly of him as you do. Don't disappoint him.

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Janine Allen (CPDT) is Rescue Me Dog's professional dog trainer. Janine's passion is working with people and their dogs. She provides demonstrations for those who have adopted shelter dogs, lends email support to adopted dog owners that need information beyond our Training Support Pages, and aids shelter staff and volunteers in understanding dog behavior to increase their adoptability.

Source: http://rescuemedog.org/dog-blog/7-dog-etiquette-rules/
Copyright 2013 Rescue Me Dog

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Also, see:

• Socialization
• (PDF) Helpful Adoption Checklist (from Second Chances by Elise Lufkin)
• Rescue Me Dog

Mother Dog & Baby Boy

Here's a sweet video that I thought I would pass on... –Kim

Sweet Mama Dog with a Beautiful Down Syndrome Child

Source: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JA8VJh0UJtg

National Pit Bull Awareness Day

Education is the key to understanding! –Kim

October 27 is National Pit Bull Awareness Day!

 
National Pit Bull Awareness Day (NPBAD) is a day of appreciation and education designed to change perceptions and stereotypes about pit bulls and their responsible owners. NPBAD was established to educate and foster positive communications and experiences in the communities in which we and our dogs live, and it is an initiative dedicated to restoring the image of the American Pit Bull Terrier.

NPBAD was started in 2007 by Jodi Preis of Bless the Bullys, a pit bull rescue and education group in Middle Tennessee. When Bless the Bullys introduced the idea of a nationwide pit bull awareness day, the response was overwhelming! It was immediately recognized as an opportunity to educate, change minds, and bring about positive media attention to pit bulls across the country all on one day.

Despite the overall positive reception, Preis initially received criticism from some for using the generic term "pit bull" in naming the nationwide effort, however, the term was chosen deliberately, and is used for a very obvious reason. "Pit bull" is the name most familiar to the public, and the term that evokes a negative connotation of a particular grouping of dogs. The objective of NPBAD is, of course, to change that negative image.



The ultimate goal of NPBAD is to promote the truth about pit bulls. Knowledge is power, and with education and advocacy, the truth will save lives in terms of negating the fear and bias generated by the media, circumvent knee-jerk reactions such as breed bans, and the truth will result in fewer pit bulls ending up in animal shelters.

NPBAD is an annual event that takes place in October. With the exception of the date, NPBAD is "unstructured" to allow those who participate to be as creative and have as much fun as possible with their ideas and celebrations. Through the years, we have seen some really creative and incredibly successful events!

NPBAD is the heart of the National Pit Bull Awareness Campaign, an effort to change minds and opinions about pit bulls not just one day a year, but everyday!

For event planning ideas, click here.
Click here to register your event!

Source: http://www.nationalpitbullawarenessday.org

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Also, see:

• Some Facts about Pit Bulls
• A Little History on Bull Terriers
• Denver Pit Bull Ban: Disturbing Photos of Executed Dogs
• Dog Breed Legislation is Inherently Dangerous
• The Victims Become the Villains: Pit Bulls and the Law
• Interview on Ineffective Dog Laws
• FREE BOOK DOWNLOAD (PDF): THE PIT BULL PLACEBO:
  The Media, Myths and Politics of Canine Aggression
• My Pit Bull is Family
• Pit Bull Pics
• Fight for a No Kill Nation
• Message to the Media

Teaching Basic Commands

Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it interesting! –Kim

How to Train Your Dog to Come & Sit

by: Nylabone Extras

Even if you have no interest in advanced training of any kind, a basic education will make your dog a better-behaved, more confident companion and make you a happier dog owner. So, get your dog and let's start training and learning!

Recall ("Come") Command

A reliable recall – meaning your dog comes to you when you call or signal – is one of the most important trained behaviors he can learn. First of all, responding promptly to your call could save his life someday. And let's face it, you will save yourself a lot of frustration if your dog comes when you want him.

But how many dogs do you know who come reliably when their owners call them? By calling their dogs without taking the time to teach them to respond correctly, most people actually teach their dogs that they don't have to come when called. If you follow the plan outlined here, your dog will understand that he must come when you call, and he will want to do so.

Before You Begin

Before you begin teaching the recall, I'm going to suggest a few things that you can do to increase your chances of success. First, if you don't yet have your dog, now is the time to set the stage for teaching him to come every time you call. Plan for success, and when your new puppy or dog joins your life, follow the guidelines and avoid the potential pitfalls right from the start.

If you have an adult dog, you've probably already tried to teach him to come when you call. If he's reliable most of the time, great – use the information here to reinforce what he has already learned and to improve his performance. But if he's not exactly spot-on when you holler out the door, you need to rethink your strategy and start over. This training will go more smoothly if you treat the recall as a new behavior you are teaching rather than as a faulty one you're repairing.

To make it "new," find a different word to use to call your dog. If you've been yelling "Come" while your dog continues to sniff the bunny trails in the yard, start over with "Here." Your dog ignores "Come," but he has not learned to ignore "Here." The hardest part will be retraining yourself to use the right word.

1. Be consistent. Always use the same word to call your dog. If you play the obedience lottery with different words like "come," "come here," "here," "get over here,"or "get your butt over here," you will probably lose more often than you win.
2. Be concise. Do not call more than once unless you want to teach your dog to ignore you. If he doesn't come when you call, go back as many steps in training as you need to. Be patient! A reliable recall is not learned or taught overnight.
3. Be generous. Reward your dog every time he comes when called. At first, the rewards should be big ones – a special treat, a jackpot sometimes. Eventually, you can scale back to an ear scratch and praise, with intermittent treats.
4. Be smart. Never, ever let your dog off his leash in an unfenced area if he doesn't come every single time you call him, despite the squirrels square dancing nearby. Even if you think he's reliable, be extremely cautious. I know of more than one very obedient dog who was killed the one and only time he didn't come when called.
5. Be prepared. Until your dog is very, very reliable, don't call him if you are not in a position to enforce the command. If you aren't sure he will come when you call him, put him on a leash or long line before he goes out in the rain so that you can get him back in.
6. Be happy. Never call your dog to you in anger or to do something to him that he won't like. If you need to put drops in his ears or put him in his crate for a while, go get him instead of calling him. Coming to you should always be safe and wonderful for your dog.

As with many behaviors, you can use a combination of techniques to teach and reinforce the recall. You can use capturing and shaping techniques (the simplest method) to reinforce your dog's natural inclination to come to you, or you can lure him.

Teaching Recall Step-by-Step

Capturing and Shaping

1. Carry treats or part of your dog's daily kibble allotment. When your dog comes to you without any prompting, mark that behavior and reward him, sometimes with a treat, sometimes with a belly rub or ear massage.
2. After you have done this a number of times, your dog will probably begin to check in with you regularly. When he's on his way to you and appears to be committed, you can begin to use your cue word: "Rowdy, come!"
3. If your dog tends to stop and sniff or travel a zigzag path to get to you, don't call him – just continue to reward him when he gets to you on his own. If you add the cue when your dog is not performing reliably, you simply teach him to ignore the word. But the rewards – treats, play, scratches – still reinforce the idea that coming to you is a good thing.

Luring

1. Begin with your puppy or dog on leash or in a small fenced area or room where he can't get too far from you. In a happy voice, say "Rowdy, come!" Then act silly, walk or run the other way, or crouch down – whatever you need to do to make your dog curious and encourage him to come to you.
2. When you start, mark his first steps toward you with your marker. As he learns to respond reliably to the recall cue, wait until he's closer to you to mark his behavior so that eventually you use the marker only when he's within reach of you.
3. Reward him after you mark his movement toward you – give him a treat, play with him, whatever makes him happy. Then let him go back to what he was doing – you don't want him to associate responding to the recall with the end of his fun.
4. Repeat the process two or three times, then quit for this session. Practice recalls several times a day, and use "real life" opportunities such as doggy dinner time to reinforce the command.
5. You can make a game of teaching the recall by having household members stand in a circle, calling your dog back and forth and rewarding him. Just make sure that only one person calls at a time.

"Sit" Command

The sit – meaning "put your tail end on the ground" – is a useful command in many situations. For one thing, it gives you a means of telling your dog to control himself when he's excited or when you're out and about meeting neighbors, watching cars and bicycles go by, or visiting the vet.

The sit also provides an alternative behavior when your rambunctious pooch is doing something you don't want him to do. By telling him to sit when you think he is about to do something you don't like, you turn a negative behavior to a positive one and reinforce him for being a "good dog."

A dog who understands the sit command also can be reassured in stressful situations – if you tell him to sit, he knows that you're in control of the situation and he's relieved of having to make a decision or take action. If you plan to compete with your dog in obedience, rally, or agility, nice quick sits are indispensable.

If you're like most dog owners, you're probably thinking, "Oh, Rowdy already knows how to sit on command. He always sits for his dinner." Good for Rowdy! But does he remain sitting until you release him? Does he sit on command no matter where he is or what's happening around him? Does he sit when you tell him just once?

Many pet dogs will sit for a second or two, often for food or a tennis ball toss, then pop right back up and resume whatever they were doing before. That's a start, but if Rowdy won't sit the first time you tell him no matter what and stay sitting until you release him, he isn't really trained to sit on command. This section will show you how to get a reliable sit every time.
 

Before You Start

You can capture your dog's spontaneous sits by marking and rewarding them, or you can shape the sit by marking and rewarding closer and closer approximations of a complete sit, but those techniques take time, especially if your dog is not yet very familiar with the "mark-and-treat" game. You also could try to model the sit by pushing down on your dog's hips to force him into position, but I don't recommend that for a couple of reasons.

First, if you position your dog, he doesn't develop the reaction to the command and the muscle memory that enables him eventually to respond automatically. He may learn to rely on the physical signal of your hand on his posterior rather than the verbal command, or if you teach one, a hand signal.

Another reason I don't recommend butt-pushing is that your dog's natural response to pressure is to exert his own pressure in the opposite direction. You push, he pushes back. You pull, he pulls back. Why have a shoving contest when you can work together? Worse still, you could injure your dog's spine or hips by pushing down on them.

Luring, on the other hand, is a good technique for teaching the sit command.
 

Teaching "Sit" Step-by-Step

1. Begin with your dog on leash or confined in a small space. Hold a treat in front of his nose, but don't let him take it.
2. Slowly raise the treat enough to clear the top of his head, and move it back over his head toward his tail. The laws of physics will take over, and as his head comes up to keep track of the treat, his fanny will approach the ground.
3. As your dog folds his hind legs to sit, tell him "Sit." When his rear end is on the floor, mark and give him the treat. Then release him.
4. Repeat this exercise three or four times per session.

A sloppy sit, in which your dog rolls one hip sideways instead of sitting squarely on his "butt bones," is probably no big deal for most pets. But if you plan to train your dog for competition, it's a good idea to insist on nice square sits from the start.

To teach your dog that "sit" means "sit squarely on your butt," be sure to mark and reward only nice, square sits. That way, your dog will learn that the only position that counts for this command is the straight, square sit.

As your dog learns to respond reliably to the sit command, you can up the ante if you want to. Reward him only for faster and faster responses. Have him hold the sit longer before you reward him.

Material adapted from Training Your Dog for Life (T.F.H. Publications, 2009), used by permission.
 

Source: http://www.nylabone.com/dog-house-chatter/2011/07/19/how-to-train-your-dog-to-come-sit/

Copyright © 2012 Nylabone

 

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Also, see:

• Clickertraining: The 4 Secrets of Becoming a Supertrainer
• Dog Training at Home
• BOOK: Training Your Dog for Life

Training an Aggressive Dog without a Shock Collar

Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it interesting! –Kim

Why Shock Collars Don't Work

By Dr. Andrew Jones

Victoria Stilwell is a British Dog Trainer who has a show on Animal Planet.

Her training methods are refreshing and POSITIVE.

For her the focus in on positive reinforcement, not negative.

I for one 100% advocate this style of training – see in this video how it completely changed this Bulldog.

Best Wishes,
Dr. Andrew Jones, DVM

Source: http://www.theinternetpetvet.com/shock-collars-work/
Copyright ©2012 Four Paws Online Ltd.

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Dr. Andrew Jones, DVM has been a practicing Veterinarian for almost 20 years. He is a strong advocate of Natural Pet Health Care, and knows that the most important way to heal our pets and prevent disease is through proper nutrition. He developed Ultimate Canine to give our dogs that extra advantage – something that will provide them with everything they need to develop stronger immune systems to fight disease, heal sore or stiff joints, and help them live longer, happier lives. Dr. Andrew Jones' main focus is on alternative, non-traditional remedies for pets. His interest in alternative pet medicine culminated in the writing of his book, Veterinary Secrets Revealed.

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Also, see:

• APBC – Shock Collars: The Shocking Truth
• Clickertraining: The 4 Secrets of Becoming a Supertrainer
• Dog Training at Home
• SENSE-ible No-Pull Dog Harness
• Collars, ID Tags, Toys, Gifts & Leashes

Denver Pit Bull Ban: Disturbing Photos of Executed Dogs

Here's a disturbing exposé that I thought I would pass on...this is just sickening! –Kim

Leaked: Photos of Pit Bulls Killed Due to Denver Ban

By Jared Jacang Maher
Oct. 7, 2009

As part of the feature story on the effectiveness of the Denver's twenty-year-old law outlawing pit bull breeds, Westword posted a photo blog of dogs impounded in a section of the municipal animal shelter known as Pit Bull Row. Now, photographs have surfaced apparently showing some of the estimated 3,487 pit bull carcasses that have been carted away from from the shelter since the ban was enacted.

Click the picture below to see more disturbing photo evidence.

The photo-taker, who asked to remain anonymous, tells Westword the pictures were taken in 2006 on the grounds of the city animal shelter. According to officials, animals euthanized by the shelter are removed by a contractor for disposal.

After a one-year moratorium, Denver began to again enforce the pit bull ban in 2005, causing a 77% increase in the number of dogs impounded in Pit Bull Row. City records show that between 2005 and 2006, 1,454 pit bulls were put down, leading to the large pile-ups of dead dogs depicted here.

Three more photos of the same scene scanned from the original copies at Westword offices.

Source: http://blogs.westword.com/latestword/2009/10/leaked_photos_of_dead_pit_bull.php
© 2012 Denver Westword, LLC

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Also, see:

• Dog Breed Legislation is Inherently Dangerous
• Pit Bull Facts
• A Little History on Bull Terriers
  
• Fight for a No Kill Nation

Pit Bull Facts

Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on... It's time to set the record straight! –Kim

Some Facts about Pit Bulls

January 16, 2011

FACT: The term "pit bull" does not refer to a specific breed of dog. It's a generic term applied to American pit bull terriers, American Staffordshire terriers, and hundreds of mixes containing elements of these breeds. DNA analysis shows that most "pit bulls" are predominantly made up of other breeds – from Lab to poodle. The term "pit bull" designates an appearance, not a breed.

FACT: Pit bulls are family-oriented dogs, blessed with a tremendous sense of loyalty.

FACT: No single neutered household pet pit bull has ever killed anyone.

FACT: Pit bulls score at or below average for aggression when compared to other dogs. Temperament evaluations by the American Temperament Test Society give American pit bull terriers a very high passing rate of 82.6%. The average passing rate for the other 121 breeds of dogs in the tests was 77%.

FACT: And no, a pit bull's jaw does not lock.

FACT: Dogs are not naturally aggressive. Almost any dog can be taught to be aggressive, and, like many other breeds, pit bulls are strong dogs who can inflict real injuries. However, the evidence shows clearly that this is not a dog problem, but a people problem.

FACT: The needless, senseless, killing of homeless pets at animal shelters comes at an enormous economic and moral cost. Public and private agencies spend $2.5 billion each year caring for and/or killing homeless dogs and cats. Pit bulls represent one in four of all animals taken into shelters. More than 80% of pit bulls in shelters will die before their second birthday.

StubbyDog is a non-profit, 501(c)(3), focused on changing public perceptions of pit bulls.

Source: http://stubbydog.org/2011/01/pit-bull-facts/  All photos by Bethany Obrecht.
Copyright © 2012 StubbyDog

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Also, see:

• FREE BOOK DOWNLOAD (PDF): THE PIT BULL PLACEBO:
  The Media, Myths and Politics of Canine Aggression
• Oreo: A Story of Tragedy & Betrayal
• Stray Pit Bull Saves Woman, Child from Attacker
• A Little History on Bull Terriers
• Message to the Media

Having Kittens for Lunch

Here's a sweet video that I thought I'd pass on... –Kim

Kittens for Lunch

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrOtf8X7P1g

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Also, see:

• When Dogs Do the Adopting
• Abandoned Greyhound becomes Surrogate Mother for 50th Time

Food Aggression

Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope it helps! –Kim

Managing Food Aggression

Dogs have four basic needs: food, safety, shelter and entertainment. Of these, food plays the most vital role in ensuring a dog's survival.

Understanding this helps us understand why there are so many reasons a dog may be food aggressive. Our understanding also helps us know what steps to take to manage that behavior.

Reasons for Food Aggression

Food aggression behaviors may have begun in puppyhood. If the dog is from a large litter, he may have had to "fight" with his littermates for a place to nurse. Likewise, breeders who feed their weaned puppies from one bowl can create or intensify the need for the pups to "fight" for food.

Strays or poorly kept dogs that end up in shelters or rescues may have experienced a period of living with limited food resources. Wandering on the streets for a long time, dogs often learn to scavenge for food and perhaps fight with other strays for a meal. He may see others in the pack – including humans – as competition for food, so he learns to guard the food available. While we humans know we will not take the dog's food, a hungry dog nonetheless may perceive your presence as a threat and act aggressively with regard to food.

Another reason for food aggression may be that the dog was once starved either intentionally or through neglect. In addition, a dog fed a poor diet will likely lack the necessary nutrients he needs and may become food aggressive. His malnourished body sends signals to his brain that he is not getting suitable nutrition, and thus, he becomes overly concerned with food. There are big differences in the nutritional content supplied by various canine foods, and not every diet satisfies every dog.

Managing Food Aggressive Behavior

Before you can resolve your dog's food aggression, you must understand why your dog feels the need to act aggressively to protect his food supply. Then you can put together a plan to teach him that his food supply is not in jeopardy and that there is plenty of nutritionally satisfying food to go around. Your plans for reeducation will only work, however, once you have established your dog's respect and trust and he sees you as the authority figure within the household.

• Educate yourself about dog food and change your dog's diet, if necessary. Speak to your vet about the best nutrition for your dog.
  
• Make mealtime as relaxed as possible. Do not interfere with your dog while he's eating, and do not try to take food or other items away from him.
  
• As the household leader, you should be the one to set the schedule and location of your dog's meals. Ignore your dog if he starts "asking" for his supper.
• Don't feed your dog at the end of a dead-end room or in a corner. Make sure he is fed in an area that is open enough to prevent him from feeling threatened or trapped.
• Consider scatter-feeding for your dog. Scattered food appeals to a dog's natural instinct to forage. Dogs enjoy looking for food on the ground and can literally spend hours doing so. Scatter a variety of foods – bits of raw vegetables, dog kibble, and other foods that won't attract wasps – around the yard. Try hiding a few treats, so your dog spends extra time looking for them.
• Teaching your dog basic obedience skills is a great way to gain control of your dog's food aggression. Use simple commands such as "leave it," starting with items that he may like but doesn't consider that important, and gain better control of him around food by teaching him to "sit" and "wait" for a treat or his supper. Basic educational skills will also enhance your relationship with your dog, as it will further establish you as the household leader and help you earn your dog's respect.
• If you need your dog to move away from food or another item, call him away from the item rather than approaching him, especially if he looks like he is guarding the food or item.
• If you have more than one dog and they are fighting over food, the best solution is to feed them separately until both dogs have been re-trained.

Your trainer can provide you with specific exercises and instructions for your individual needs based on your dog's behavior and temperament.

Source: Shannon's Pet-Sitting

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Also, see:

• Fearful Dogs
• Dealing with Aggression
• Food Aggression

Top 10 New Year's Resolutions for Pet Owners

Here's a great New Year's article that I thought I would pass on... Happy New Year! –Kim

Top Ten Resolutions for Your Pet

Get organized. Check. Get a better job. Check. Lose weight. Check that one twice. This New Year isn't unlike any other – you've probably made resolutions that you'll struggle to keep after the first week. petMD.com suggests making a real difference in 2012 by forging a pact with your pet. These resolutions will help keep your pet happy, healthy and safe throughout the year. And well, what's more important than that?

1. Pet-proof your home – As you may already know, pets get into anything and everything! Keep poisons and other dangerous items in secure places, preferably in a locked cabinet or in a room that is out of the animal's reach.
2. Get your pet ID'd – Whether it is an ID tag or a microchip or GPS tracking device, identifying your pet and your contact information will help your chances of having your pet returned should it become lost – especially in the case of lost dogs and cats. Just remember to keep the contact information current!
3. Socialize your pet – Don't worry; you don't have to create a Facebook profile for them. But like children, your pet can become destructive and unmanageable when she is not given enough attention or is not allowed to socialize with other animals of her kind. Obedience training is just what your pet needs to learn some manners. And remember, it's never too late to train an animal.
4. Groom your pet – There is nothing worse than a stinky pet. Stay on top of her grooming routine – bathe her, brush her coat, and clip her nails. All these things will make her the envy of your block. And if you haven't noticed yet, your pet is usually happier when she is clean and pretty.
5. Have your pet spayed or neutered – Of course we all know spaying (and neutering) helps decrease the population of strays, but did you know many veterinarians believe it can benefit the animal's health too? Among the health benefits: a decrease in testicular cancer, prostate problems, urine marking and inter-dog (or inter-cat) aggression for males, and a decrease in mammary cancer, uterine cancer, and ovarian cancer for females.
6. Use preventives – Why worry about heartworms, fleas and other pesky parasites? Preventives are your pet's best line of defense against parasites and the deadly dog diseases and cat diseases they cause. Also, consult your veterinarian. Year-round use may be needed in warmer regions.
7. Create a maintenance checklist – Maintenance is perhaps the most dreaded of all pet resolutions. Perhaps it's the awful smells or all the cleaning involved. Whatever the reason, developing proper maintenance habits (e.g., emptying the litter box, cleaning the cage, changing the newspaper clippings) will create a clean and pleasant environment for your pet. Also, poor sanitation can lead to behavior and health issues.
8. Customize your pet's diet – Diets should be suited to the animal's age and size. When kept at her ideal body weight, your pet can live a longer, healthier life. She is also at a lower risk of heart disease, joint problems, and various other conditions associated with poor health.
9. Exercise with your pet more – Need an exercise partner? Look no further. Some dogs are satisfied with a walk around the neighborhood once a day, while others require additional exercise time. Take her to a park, to the beach or to your backyard, just make sure you have fun, too! Oh, and don't forget about your other pet(s). Just because she isn't a dog, doesn't mean she doesn't need exercise. (We're looking at you, Kitty!)
10. Don't postpone the annual checkup – Not only will waiting until your pet is ill lead to unnecessary suffering, complications may arise and this will make the animal's course of treatment more expensive. Keep your vet bills in check and visit the white-coated professional regularly.

View slideshow: "Top 10 New Year's Resolutions"

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About petMD: petMD.com is a leading online resource focused solely on the health and well-being of pets. The site maintains the world's largest pet health library, written and approved by a network of trusted veterinarians.

Source: http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/petmd-suggests-top-10-new-years-resolutions-for-pet-owners-136374503.html