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Senin, 17 Maret 2014

How to Litterbox Train Your Dog

Valuable Resource...
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...Using the Same Proven Methods that Thousands of People Worldwide Have Used to Relieve Their Indoor Puppy Housetraining, Dog Housebreaking, Puppy Potty Training, Dog Potty Training or Dog Housetraining Problems!

Amazing Step-by-Step LITTERBOX DOG PUPPY HOUSETRAINING – Awesome Indoor Dog Housetraining or Housebreaking manual is unlike anything you've ever seen. This incredible resource is not available in bookstores, in petstores or anywhere else.... Even a Child Can Do It!

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Can Experience All the Amazing Benefits of My Stress-Free Dog Litterbox Training without Sacrificing All Your Time to Do It!
  • It works for any dog, any age or breed.
  • It saves you TIME, effort, energy and money!
  • Your dog will be able to potty indoors or outdoors upon completion!
  • You will have no more ruined carpet or furniture!
  • No more stress from potty mess or smell!
  • No more going out in snow, rain or terrible heat!
  • No more carrying in dirt or mud worries.
  • No more dashing home to let dog outside to potty!
  • No more need for midnight potty walks.
  • Perfect for condo, apartment or RV dwellers!
  • No need to schedule days or weeks for training!
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What is your reason for wanting the luxury of a dog litterbox training system that works without having to give up precious days or weeks of your life to do it?
  • Are you planning on getting a dog or own a puppy and want the luxury of them being able to go potty when they need wherever they are??
  • Do you live in an apartment, condo or mobile home?
  • Do you own an older dog with special needs?
  • Do you want to protect your dog from bad weather?
  • Are you physically unable to take your dog outdoors?
  • Have you lost sleep due to midnight potty trips?
  • Do you miss activities you love due to not being able to leave puppy home alone too long?
  • Have you tried dog litterbox training, failed and need a method that works?
  • Do you need a dog litterbox training method that works FAST with little effort from you?

Continued - Click for more information, plus some BONUSES....

Senin, 17 Februari 2014

Is Your Dog Potty Trained Enough?

Here are some good housetraining tips that I thought I would pass on. –Kim

House Training Your Puppy or Adult Dog

House training a puppy or adult dog is such an essential issue for his owner that even a single exclusive tip turns out to be extremely helpful.

The first step in making your dog fit for polite company would be to potty train him. Some see this training as a hassle and some as a challenge.
For me, it is part of bringing up a pet.
 
There are a few things you need to know before you actually start potty training a puppy or adult dog. I enumerate these below:
  • You need to understand your dog's body language. Watch for signs that will indicate to you when your pet wants to eliminate.
  • If you own puppies, remember that they need to go potty at fairly frequent intervals – as soon as they wake up, after short naps, after play-time, after meals, before and after being crated and finally, before retiring for the night.
  • Take your dog for walks at the time that he usually does his potty. Take him out to the yard, and then, to the same place there every time he needs to answer nature's call.
  • Praise your dog after he eliminates at the right place. Some dog owners even give treats to their dogs. But remember to do this every time he does it right. He will relate the rewards to his having "done it right" and zero in on the spot where you want him to defecate regularly.
  • With time, you can try signal training. This is so that you know when your doggie wants to go. You can hang a bell at his level near the door and teach him to push it with his nose or pat it with his paw on his way out.
  • Until your dog has been fully potty trained, keep him under strict vigilance. Do not let him roam around the house freely.
  • Use a crate. A crate-trained dog is usually very happy to get his own den. The advantage of crating is that dogs do not soil the place where they sleep. So, he will naturally not eliminate inside the crate.
  • If you have a small dog and if you live in a high-rise building or in a place that does not have a proper backyard, you can try litter pan training. This means to create a space for your pet to eliminate in your house itself.
  • Use positive reinforcements while housebreaking puppies or adult dogs. Do not scold or hit him, as you will gain nothing by doing that. He will only associate punishment with your return from outside. If you catch him in the act, a stern 'NO' or 'FREEZE' will do (but be consistent). It will startle the dog enough for him to stop pooping.
  • Be prepared to return to a soiled home if you are keeping your dog home alone for more than 4 hours, as separation anxiety is quite common among home-alone dogs.
  • Accidents will happen. It is unusual for a trained adult dog to work against his house training. But medical problems or health disorders may lead to sudden accidents.
  • Many dogs mark their territory. These can be a leg of a table or a particular wall. Intact male and female dogs mark their territories by urinating. Use deodorizers to spray on the places where your dog has marked.
  • If you are patient and are ready to accept that house training a dog takes time, even months sometimes, you will end up having a good house-trained dog.

Now we will move on to how to potty train puppies and adult dogs.
 
Potty Training a Puppy
 
Irrespective of breeds, house training a puppy is considered to be one of the biggest challenges by dog owners. If you think house training your puppy simply involves a steady supply of old newspapers or puppy pads, then think again.
 
A puppy does not develop full control over his bladder until he is over 4 or 5 months old. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this time, puppies eat more, burn more calories and need to eliminate more frequently than an adult dog.
 
After each nap, meal, drink or playtime, take your puppy to his designated area (indoors or outdoors, wherever you have decided) and stay there until he eliminates. Then bring him to his crate.
 
Repeat this situation everyday until he has developed a habit out of it.
 
Potty Training an Adult Dog

The best way to house train an adult dog is to begin all over again.
 
Observe him very closely. Maybe even maintain a diary of where he goes and when. Whether he is pooping when you are home or only when you are outside; whether you can, time yourself to be home when he feels the need to go outside.
 
You can try dog crates, but be careful to introduce him gradually to them.
 
Remember: Commitment, consistency and intelligent use of positive reinforcement will make you the owner of a perfectly house-trained dog. Don't expect miracles. You will only be disappointed.
 

Get this unique house training guide and start house-breaking your dog today.
 
Copyright © 2009 TrainPetDog.com
 

Sabtu, 23 November 2013

Is Your Dog a "Bully"?

Here's a great article about "bully" dogs...hope you find it helpful! –Kim

Why (and How) You Should Intervene if Your Dog Picks on Others

By Pat Miller
May 2006

You can find them everywhere – at dog parks and doggie daycare centers, in dog training classes, in your neighbor's yards ... perhaps even in your own home. "They" are canine bullies – dogs who overwhelm their potential playmates with overly assertive and inappropriate behaviors, like the out-of-control human bully on the school playground.

Jasper is a nine-month-old Labradoodle from a puppy mill, currently enrolled in one of my Peaceable Paws Good Manners classes. He was kept in a wire cage on a Pennsylvania farm until he was four months old, when his new owners purchased him. Katy Malcolm, the class instructor, asked me to sit in on the first end-of-class play session with Jasper because she was concerned that his lack of early socialization could present a challenge. She was right.

Four shots of the same playground bully, taken over a 20-minute period at a dog park. In the first photo, the Boxer-mix bully
has blindsided a 
dog who just entered the park. In the next three, she focuses her attention on the same victim, a
young Lab-mix. She clearly enjoys 
holding him down as a variety of other dogs come over to investigate.
Sam was a 10-week-old Golden Retriever puppy, well bred, purchased from a responsible breeder by knowledgeable dog owners who immediately enrolled him in one of my Peaceable Paws Puppy Good Manners classes to get him started on the right paw. Sam unexpectedly also turned out to be a challenge at his first end-of-class puppy play session.

These two dogs had considerably different backgrounds, but when it came time to play, both dogs exhibited bullying behaviors: Jasper because he never had a chance to learn how to interact appropriately with other dogs; Sam because – well – who knows? Genetics, maybe? Early experiences in his litter, maybe? Regardless of the reasons, both dogs required special handling if they were ever to have a normal canine social life.

Bullying Defined
In her excellent book, Fight!, dog trainer and author Jean Donaldson defines bullying dogs (not to be confused with "Pitbull-type dogs") as those dogs for whom "roughness and harassment of non-consenting dogs is quite obviously reinforcing." Like the human playground bully, the bully dog seems to get a kick out of tormenting less-assertive members of his playgroup. Donaldson says, "They engage at it full tilt, with escalating frequency, and almost always direct it at designated target dogs."

When released with permission to "go play," the poorly socialized Labradoodle, Jasper, immediately pounced on the back of Mesa, an easy-going and confident Rottweiler who was playing nicely with Bo, a submissive but exuberant Golden Retriever. Jasper barked insistently, nipping at Mesa's back as she tried to ignore his social ineptness. Finally, fed up with his boorish behavior, she flashed her teeth at him one time, at which point he decided Bo was a better target for his attentions. Indeed, Bo found him overwhelming, a response that emboldened Jasper to pursue him even more energetically.

We intervened in his play with Mesa several times by picking up Jasper's dragging leash and giving him a time-out when his behavior was completely unacceptable, then releasing him to "Go play!" when he settled a bit. Each time we released him he promptly re-escalated to an unacceptable level of bullying, until Mesa herself told him to "Back off, Bud!" with a quick flash of her teeth.

Human-controlled time-outs, however, made no impression on Jasper. The canine corrections were more effective, but didn't stop the behavior; they only redirected it to a less-capable victim. Because Bo wasn't assertive enough to back Jasper off, we ended the play as soon as Jasper turned his attentions to the softer dog.

Bully #2
Like Jasper's preferred victim, Sam's favorite bullying target was also a Rottweiler – not a breed you'd expect to find wearing an invisible "bite me!" sign. Max was a pup about Sam's own age, who outweighed Sam considerably but was no match for the smaller pup's intensity.

Sam had given us no indication during class that he had a play problem. In fact, he was a star performer for his clicks and treats. However, when playtime arrived his demeanor changed from an attentive "What can I do to get you to click the clicker?" pupil to an "I'm tough and you just try to stop me!" bully.

Several seconds after the two pups began frolicking together, Sam suddenly pinned Max to the ground with a ferocious snarl, then released him briefly, just to pin him again in short order. Needless to say, we also intervened quickly in that relationship!

Appropriate Play
Owners often have difficulty distinguishing between appropriate and inappropriate play. Some may think that perfectly acceptable play behavior is bullying because it involves growling, biting, and apparently pinning the playmate to the ground. Appropriate play can, in fact, look and sound quite ferocious.

The difference is in the response of the playmate. If both dogs appear to be having a good time and no one's getting hurt, it's usually fine to allow the play to continue. Thwarting your dog's need to play by stopping him every time he engages another dog, even if it's rough play, can lead to other behavior problems.

With a bully, the playmate clearly does not enjoy the interaction. The softer dog may offer multiple appeasement and deference signals that are largely or totally ignored by the canine bully. The harassment continues, or escalates.

Any time one play partner is obviously not having a good time, it's wise to intervene. A traumatic play experience can damage the softer dog's confidence and potentially induce a life-long fear-aggression or "Reactive Rover" response – definitely not a good thing!

Some bullies seem to spring from the box full-blown. While Sam had, no doubt, already been reinforced for his bullying by the response of his softer littermates, he must have been born with a strong, assertive personality in order for the behavior to be as pronounced as it was by the tender age of 10 weeks. Jasper, on the other hand, may have been a perfectly normal puppy, but months of social deprivation combined with a strong desire to be social turned him into an inadvertent bully.

There can certainly be a learned component of any bullying behavior. As Jean Donaldson reminds us, the act of harassing a "non-consenting dog" is in and of itself reinforcing for bullies.

By definition, a behavior that's reinforced continues or increases – hence the importance of intervening with a bully at the earliest possible moment, rather than letting the behavior become more and more ingrained through reinforcement. As with most behavior modification, prognosis is brightest if the dog is young, if he hasn't had much chance to practice the unwanted behavior, and if he has not been repeatedly successful at it.

Oops!
Successful modification of bullying behavior requires attention to several elements:
  • Skilled application of intervention tools and techniques: Leashes and long lines, no-reward markers (NRMs) and time-outs;
  • Excellent timing of intervention: Application of NRMs and time-outs;
  • Reinforcement for appropriate behavior: Play continues or resumes when dog is calm or playing nicely;
  • Selection of appropriate play partners: Dogs who are not intimidated or traumatized by bullying behavior.

While working to decrease or extinguish your dog’s bullying, you might have to let him
drag
a short leash, or keep him on a long line while playing. This enables you to stop
his bullying
the moment it starts. Keep him on a “time out” until he is calm.
The most appropriate human intervention is the use of "negative punishment," in which the dog's behavior makes a good thing go away. In this case, the most appropriate negative punishment is a time-out. Used in conjunction with a "no-reward marker" (NRM) or "punishment" marker, this works best for bullying behavior.

The opposite of the clicker (or other reward marker, such as the word, "Yes!"), the NRM says, "That behavior made the good stuff go away." With bullying, the good stuff is the opportunity to play with other dogs. Just as the clicker always means a treat is coming, the NRM always means the behavior stops immediately or good stuff goes away; it's not to be used repeatedly as a threat or warning.

My preferred NRM, the one I teach and use if/when necessary, is the word "Oops!" rather than the word "No!" which is deliberately used to shut down behavior – and as such is usually delivered firmly or harshly and unfortunately often followed by physical punishment. "Oops!" simply means, "Make another behavior choice or there will be an immediate loss of good stuff." An NRM is to be delivered in a non-punitive tone of voice; it's almost impossible to say "Oops!" harshly.

Timing is just as important with your NRM as it is with your reward marker. It says, "Whatever you were doing the exact instant you heard the 'Oops!' is what earned your time-out." You'll use it the instant your dog's bully behavior appears, and if the bullying continues for more than a second or two more, grasp his leash or drag-line (a long, light line attached to his collar) and remove him from play. Don't repeat the NRM. Give him at least 20 seconds to calm down, more if he needs it, then release him to go play again. If several time-outs don't dampen the behavior even slightly, make them longer and make sure he's calm prior to returning to play.

If a half-dozen time-outs have absolutely no effect, end the play session for the day. If the NRM does stop the bullying, thank your dog for responding, and allow him to continue playing under direct supervision as his reward.

Another sometimes-effective approach to bully modification requires access to an appropriate "neutral dog" – a dog like Mesa who is confident enough to withstand the bully's assault without being traumatized or responding with inappropriate aggression in return. A flash of the pearly whites as a warning is fine. A full-out dogfight is not.

It's important to watch closely during interactions with the bully. Any sign the neutral dog is becoming unduly stressed by the encounters should bring the session to an immediate halt. A neutral dog may be able to modify your bully's behavior, and have it transfer to other dogs – or not. If not, you may be able to find one or two sturdy, neutral dogs who can be your dog's play companions, and leave the softer dogs to gentler playpals. Not all dogs get along with all other dogs.

Outcomes
Sam's owners were exceptionally committed to helping their pup overcome his inappropriate play behaviors. We continued to allow him to play with one or two other sturdy, resilient puppies, using an NRM and his leash to calmly but firmly remove him every time his play intensity increased. We moved him away from the other pups until he was calm, then allowed him to resume his play. By the end of his first six-week class he was playing appropriately most of the time with one or two other pups, under direct supervision. After two more six-week sessions he played well with a stable group of four other dogs, under general supervision, without needing NRMs or time-outs.

The last time I saw Sam was an incidental encounter, at Hagerstown's Pooch Pool Plunge event. Every year when the city closes its community pool for the winter, they open it up on one Saturday for people to bring their dogs for a pooch pool party. Sam, now a full-grown adult dog, attended the Plunge at the end of Summer 2005, with more than 100 dogs in attendance. His behavior was flawless.

Jasper may have a longer road, but I'm optimistic that he'll come around as well. We plan to continue having him play with Mesa, as long as she's handling him as well as she did in last week's class. Between Mesa's canine corrections and our time-outs, we're hopeful that he'll learn appropriate social skills and be able to expand his social circle to other appropriate dogs. Is there a Pool Plunge in Jasper's future? We'll just have to wait and see.

Pat Miller, CPDT, WDJ's Training Editor, lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center.
 
Source: The Whole Dog Journal
© 2013 Belvoir Media Group, LLC


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Minggu, 03 November 2013

Common Dog Behavior Myths

Here's a great article about common myths...hope you find it informative! –Kim

14 Common Dog Behavior Myths Decoded

By Mikkel Becker
March 5, 2012

Although dog training has become more of a science than a craft in recent years, some persistent myths still mislead us when reading canine behavior. Don't let a myth harm your relationship with your pooch. Here, we dispel 14 common myths and look at the facts.

1. An old dog can't learn new tricks.

False. Old dogs not only learn new tricks but they thrive when trained. My late Pomeranian, Mr. Teddy, who was adopted at an estimated 10 to 13 years of age, was a training superstar in Vetstreet videos, which were filmed two weeks before he passed away. By the same token, older dogs without housetraining experience as puppies can successfully be housetrained. As long as a dog is mentally and physically capable of learning to perform a behavior and is properly motivated, it's entirely possible to train her. While intense agility training for Teddy was not realistic, teaching basic commands was.

2. A dog shouldn't sleep with you or be allowed on furniture, or she'll think she's the boss and will misbehave.

False. Just like humans, dogs simply want a comfortable place to lie down. If comfort can be combined with being next to their beloved human, whether it's right next to you on the couch, or even on top of your lap, then they're all for it. In rare cases, dogs will guard their sleeping and resting areas, and will show aggression when humans approach these sacred areas. This type of behavior will require remedial training. But for the average Rover, sleeping in bed or resting on the couch has no adverse behavioral effects.

3. When your dog has a potty accident, it's important to rub her nose in it to let her know what she did.

False. When you rub a dog's nose in her own mess, she often sees no association between that and her having had a potty accident. Nor does rubbing her nose in her accident teach her not to potty on the floor again. Instead, rubbing her nose in her accident teaches her that humans are dangerous and unpredictable, and she will likely begin to hide in safety by sneaking into another room to go to the bathroom, making housebreaking even more difficult.

4. A dog who cowers from people was likely abused in the past.

False. There are various reasons for dogs cowering, and not all of them are because a dog was abused. Commonly, the dog was not properly socialized or had negative experiences during her prime socialization period as a puppy. Genetics also play a role in the fearful dog. Other reasons for a dog to duck away might be that she has learned to dodge people who try to grab her collar, or she is uncomfortable with petting, such as having her ears handled. Unfortunately, well-meaning strangers often approach dogs by bending over the top of their heads and reaching down to pet, which will send timid dogs into a cowering position. A better way to approach is by getting into a kneeling position, with your body turned toward the side, and then inviting the dog to approach you. If you practice this method, it will be less likely to cause a canine to cower.

5. Shelter dogs have too much baggage. It's better to adopt a puppy to start with a clean slate.

False. Many shelter dogs are well-behaved pooches who, for an endless list of possible reasons, could not be kept by their original owners. Older shelter dogs make ideal candidates for people wanting to skip the puppy stages of chewing, potty training and mouthing. The interview process at most shelters also pairs canine candidates with the family setting that will best suit the dog's temperament, which can create cohesion from the beginning.

6. All dogs should enjoy being around other dogs. It's essential for dogs to go on outings with other dogs, such as at the dog park. If a dog doesn't enjoy other dogs, there is something wrong with her.

False. Not all people are social butterflies and neither are all dogs. Some dogs may prefer solitude and only a small, select group of people. Dogs also have their own preferences when it comes to other canines. Breeding can play a big role in their sociability, with terriers being notorious for contentiousness with other pooches. Other times, whether from lack of socialization as a puppy or simply an individual preference, dogs may not enjoy canine comradery. Even though plenty of dogs enjoy the dog park, not all of them enjoy the idea of dozens of other dogs frolicking around them and would instead prefer a quiet walk with their owners.

7. You should let dogs just fight it out when they get into a scuffle.

False (well, at least partly false). It's true that you should never get into the middle of a dog fight, because some of the most damaging dog bites occur when owners try to separate fighting dogs. There are some tactics you can use to break up the scuffle without actually getting in the middle of the fray. Try using water, a really loud noise, or even a distraction like grabbing a treat bag or using voice to direct them to do something else. Owners should do everything they can to prevent another fight in the future. Often dogs don't settle matters on their own, and fighting intensifies over time, especially with dogs in the same home. This calls for advanced training with the help of an animal behaviorist or a certified professional trainer.

8. My dog is trying to show she's in charge when she doesn't listen to me.

False. It's easy to attribute human motives like "getting even" or "being spiteful" to our dogs, but dogs don't have the same complex emotions as humans. The more realistic reasons why a dog doesn't do what's being asked is either because she doesn't understand what she's being asked to do, or the dog doesn't have the proper motivation to want to perform the behavior. For example, most dogs don't come when called because the payoff isn't worth it. When they do, they usually are put on a leash or taken into the house when they'd rather stay outside.

9. My dog knows she was bad after she goes potty in the house. Her guilty face says it all.

False. Dogs show a perceived "guilty face" not because they feel an actual emotion of guilt, but they are actually showing appeasement behaviors in response to their owners intimidating body language. Whether we want to or not, it's difficult not to display negative body language when we're upset with our pets. A 2009 study by researcher Alexandra Horowitz at Barnard College in New York revealed that the "guilty look" dogs display is solely attributed by humans and has no relation to whether the dog is actually responsible for an offense. The study found that dogs who had not actually eaten the forbidden treat, but were scolded by their misinformed owners for eating a treat, showed guiltier-looking body language than dogs who had actually eaten the forbidden treat. The guilty look is simply a response of the dog to her owner's behavior.

10. It's always the owner's fault when a dog misbehaves.

False. Most owners are well-meaning, but are simply misinformed or lack knowledge on how to train their dogs effectively. Blaming the owner for all of a dog's problems makes for good TV, but there are a myriad of reasons why a dog misbehaves, including lack of proper socialization or preventive training, or even the genetic tendencies of the dog. It's important for pet parents to push past feelings of shame or guilt; instead get started in the right direction with help from a pet professional using positive reinforcement methods.

11. Using treats for training is bribery, and the dog won't do the behavior later if you don't give her a treat.

False. It's true that dogs need motivation to perform a behavior. That said, the motivation doesn't always have to be a food-based reward. Dogs can be rewarded in many other ways. Reward them with playing, petting or getting to go outside. They can also be put on a random schedule of rewards with a lottery-ticket-like system so they never know when the payout will come. This system helps keep them motivated. For example: learning to walk on a loose leash may be taught in the beginning by using treats, but once the behavior is learned, treats can be phased out so that the only reward becomes getting to go on the walk itself.

12. When a dog chews up shoes or destroys furniture it's because she's punishing the owner.

False. Dogs chew on shoes, furniture and other human items not to punish their owners, but simply because it feels good on their teeth, it relieves boredom, releases energy and, in some cases, may indicate separation anxiety.

13. A dog can't really be happy unless she can run off-leash.

False. Leashes are made for a dog's safety. They should be perceived as tools that keep your dog from running into oncoming traffic, going up to unknown dogs or people, and prevent them from running way. Although regular off-leash play in a fenced area is essential for a dog's well-being, while out in public, dogs can learn to be perfectly content on a leash at their owner's side.

14. Dogs are great judges of people, so if a dog doesn't like someone, it must mean there is something wrong with that person.

False. In the majority of cases, dogs who react aggressively or fearfully to a person are not doing so out of a negative moral evaluation of the individual, but are responding out of their own self-preservation. With that said, there have been plenty of circumstances where pets have used an apparent sixth sense to pick up on cues that went unseen by their human and actually saved their human's life. However, the majority of dogs I see in my training practice are unfriendly with a person because they are reacting out of fear to a certain physical attribute, movement or the physical proximity of a person, and are not reacting based on any moral evaluation of the individual.

Source: VetStreet
© 2012 Vetstreet


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Kamis, 31 Oktober 2013

How to Train Your Dog at Home

Valuable Resource...

How to Easily Train Your Dog...
Like a Pro

It's essential for dog parents like you to know certain basic factors that determine your relationship with your dog and can go a long way in training him effectively.

Before you begin training your dog, it is absolutely essential that you build a loving bond with him. This is important as it helps you to understand his needs and instincts and also allows your dog to have complete trust in you.

Let's see how.......

How To Bond With Your Dog
Building a bond with your dog is the first and the most crucial step involved in training him successfully. As soon as you bring your dog home, you must first try to develop a caring and loving relationship with him in order to win his trust and confidence.


When dogs are secure in the knowledge that they belong to the family, they are more likely to respond better to their owners' training commands. Just like with any relationship, there must be mutual trust and respect between you and your dog.

Trust takes time to develop and respect comes from defining boundaries and treating any breach of those boundaries with firmness and fairness.

Without enforceable limitations, respect can’t be developed. And when there is no respect, building a bond with your dog is almost impossible.

Four Golden Rules to Building a Relationship with Your Dog:
  • Spend quality time together;
  • Take him out in the world and experience life together;
  • Establish and promote a level of mutual respect; and
  • Develop a way of communicating to understand each other's needs.
Building a bond with your dog will not only help you manage him better but will also make your dog calm, quiet and an extremely well-adjusted pet.

Love your dog and he will love you back!

When you're successful in building a bond with your dog, you can rest assured that training him and teaching him new and clever tricks will be a cakewalk.

Learn how to bond with your dog with this free mini course.

How Your Dog Learns...
Your dog's learning period can be divided into five phases:


The Teaching Phase – This is the phase where you must physically demonstrate to your Dog exactly what you want him to do.

The Practicing Phase – Practice makes Perfect. When a lesson is learned, practice with your dog what you have just taught him.

The Generalizing Phase – Here you must continue practicing with your dog in different locations and in an environment with a few distractions. You can take your dog out for a walk, or to a nearby park and command him to practice whatever you've taught him.

Practicing the learned lessons in multiple locations and in the presence of small distractions will help him learn and retain lessons better.

The Testing Phase – As soon as you're sure that your dog has achieved almost 90% success – he responds correctly almost every time you give a command – you must start testing his accuracy in newer locations with a lot of distractions.

Example: Take him to the local shopping mall and ask him to obey your command. He may not come up with the correct response the very first time you do this, but you must not lose hope.

The idea is to test your dog to see how he responds in an environment that is new to him. Set-up a situation where you are in control of the environment and your dog.

There are only 2 possibilities:
  • Your dog succeeds!!! (Trumpets please!)
  • In case your dog fails, re-examine the situation. Review and/or change your training. Then, try testing again.
Keep on testing until he succeeds. Follow the rule of the three Ps: patience, persistence, praise.

Internalizing Phase Finally, comes the extremely rewarding phase where your dog does everything he is taught to do even without your commands.

Remember:
  • Never scold your dog if he fails. It's not his fault. You have failed as a trainer!
  • You must be patient and persistent for your efforts to show rewards.
  • Appreciate and praise your dog when he does it right! A little encouragement will work wonders for your dog.
  • Dog Training is easy when you do it right.
Continued - Learn how to train your dog better with this free mini course.
Copyright © 2009 TrainPetDog.com

Rabu, 23 Oktober 2013

Teach Your Dog to Stop Barking

Here's a great video that might help if your dog barks a lot...hope it helps! –Kim

How to Teach Your Dog to Stop Barking

It's natural for a dog to bark. It's one way he expresses his feelings – everything from excitement to agitation. If you have an incessant barker, it's important to teach him an alternative behavior like the "quiet" command. If your dog is fearful or aggressive, though, the "quiet" command might not be the right fit for your pooch. Talk to your veterinarian, who may recommend a referral to a behaviorist or certified trainer for your pet.
Source: Vetstreet
© 2001-2013 Vetstreet



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Jumat, 20 September 2013

Clicker-training: The Highly Effective Method Used by Many Professional Dog Trainers

Valuable Resource...

The 4 Secrets of Becoming a Supertrainer...

The following information may change the way you look at dog training forever.
From Morten Egtvedt & Cecilie Koeste
 
Dear Fellow Dog Trainer,
Did you know that there are FOUR important secrets about training dogs (or any other animals), that can make YOU capable of solving every behavior problem you will ever meet – and teach any new behavior or trick you can imagine?

Did you know that regardless of whether you have just gotten your first puppy or whether you are already an experienced dog owner or trainer – learning these secrets could change your life?

Did you know that everything you have heard about clicker training until now may be just the tip of the iceberg?

Did you know that most people using clicker training today never really unleash the full potential of this powerful technology?

Well, that is going to change for you, my friend...

...as soon as you learn the 4 Secrets of Becoming a Supertrainer.

Meet Emma. She is the kind of dog trainer who is able to solve ANY kind of dog problem. No matter what kind of dog, no matter what kind of behavior problem. Emma knows exactly how to analyze the problem, design a training plan and fix it. And dogs just love her!

Emma used to be just like most other dog owners. She believed that advanced dog training was only for experts with special talents (you know, like the "dog whisperers" on TV).

But then Emma learned about Clicker Training and the 4 Secrets of Becoming a Supertrainer. And when you know these secrets your life changes. Because now you always know where to look for solutions when you want to fix a problem, teach a new behavior or improve your training.

When YOU learn these 4 secrets you too will be ready to face ANY training challenge. And just like Emma you will be laughing at "dog whisperers" with all their superstitious explanations.

Because you will know that dog training is not magic – it's SCIENCE. And everyone can learn these scientific principles and use them effectively in their training.

 
So, where do I learn more about these secrets?
Click here for more information!

Sabtu, 22 Juni 2013

How to Litterbox Train Your Dog

Valuable Resource...
How to Have Quick and Easy Dog Litterbox Training Success with Virtually No Risk...


...Using the Same Proven Methods that Thousands of People Worldwide Have Used to Relieve Their Indoor Puppy Housetraining, Dog Housebreaking, Puppy Potty Training, Dog Potty Training or Dog Housetraining Problems!

Amazing Step-by-Step LITTERBOX DOG PUPPY HOUSETRAINING – Awesome Indoor Dog Housetraining or Housebreaking manual is unlike anything you've ever seen. This incredible resource is not available in bookstores, in petstores or anywhere else.... Even a Child Can Do It!

YOU, YES, YOU!...

Can Experience All the Amazing Benefits of My Stress-Free Dog Litterbox Training without Sacrificing All Your Time to Do It!
  • It works for any dog, any age or breed.
  • It saves you TIME, effort, energy and money!
  • Your dog will be able to potty indoors or outdoors upon completion!
  • You will have no more ruined carpet or furniture!
  • No more stress from potty mess or smell!
  • No more going out in snow, rain or terrible heat!
  • No more carrying in dirt or mud worries.
  • No more dashing home to let dog outside to potty!
  • No more need for midnight potty walks.
  • Perfect for condo, apartment or RV dwellers!
  • No need to schedule days or weeks for training!
100% Guaranteed!!

What is your reason for wanting the luxury of a dog litterbox training system that works without having to give up precious days or weeks of your life to do it?
  • Are you planning on getting a dog or own a puppy and want the luxury of them being able to go potty when they need wherever they are??
  • Do you live in an apartment, condo or mobile home?
  • Do you own an older dog with special needs?
  • Do you want to protect your dog from bad weather?
  • Are you physically unable to take your dog outdoors?
  • Have you lost sleep due to midnight potty trips?
  • Do you miss activities you love due to not being able to leave puppy home alone too long?
  • Have you tried dog litterbox training, failed and need a method that works?
  • Do you need a dog litterbox training method that works FAST with little effort from you?

Continued - Click for more information, plus some BONUSES....

Rabu, 19 Juni 2013

The Apology Video

Here's a great video that I thought I would pass on...it makes sense! –Kim

The Apology Video

Please take a moment and view this video that deals with the reality of pet ownership. In rescue, we urge our adopters to consider all aspects of owning a pet before they decide to make an addition to their life and family.
 

Source: http://www.retrieverrescueofcolorado.com/new/rroc-videos/
 

Also, see:
 

Minggu, 16 Juni 2013

Recession Hits Shelters Hard

Here's a great article that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it interesting! –Kim

Lucky Dogs, Cool Cats, Happy Owners Can Come of Shelters

By Janice Lloyd, USA TODAY
8/18/2010
Sam Casadevall holds beagles Sandy, left, and Rudy.
His family adopted Rudy from a shelter, but he
chose the name after the inspiring football movie.
Eva was discovered on the side of the road on Christmas Eve. The little tabby had been hit by a car.
Walter spent five years in different pet shelters before the aging black Lab with the gray muzzle was adopted at age 13.
Oscar was dropped off at a shelter when his owners got the call to report to Iraq and could no longer care for their dog.
Sad tales? Not in the end. These hard-luck stories with happy endings were submitted by readers of USA TODAY's online pet community, Paw Print Post, about pets they adopted from rescue groups or shelters.
Each story is different, but in every case these pets have become an important part of their adopted family. Patrick Davitt of Rochester, Minn., rescued two dogs that had been abused. "Today?" he says. "They are spectacular dogs and my constant companions. I don't know what I'd do without these guys."
 
6 to 8 Million Animals
Shelters are temporary homes for 6 million to 8 million animals. Many family pets end up in shelters or with rescue groups because their owners don't know how to care for them, or they have behavior issues or special needs and their care is too expensive. Thousands are euthanized.
Shaggy, a terrier-golden mix, was in the SPCA in Syracuse, N.Y., and about to be put down because he has seizures. Marilyn and Stephen Strock heard about him and took him home. "Seizures are no big deal to me since I'm a former neurosurgical ICU nurse," says Marilyn Strock.
Charlie was thrown out of a car on a highway, was hit by another car and broke his back. He ended up with the Scottish Terrier Club of Greater New York Rescue. That's how Ken and Nancy Handshaw heard about him. They were looking for a companion for their own Scottie. They didn't care that Charlie required a special walker, or that he lacked bladder control. "We drove 600 miles to meet him and spent the afternoon playing with Charlie," says Nancy Handshaw. "Charlie has been with us now for over five years and has been a very important part of our lives."
 
Recession Hits Shelters Hard
Betsy Saul, founder of Petfinder.com, says the recession has been a double whammy for pets. Owners who lose their jobs and face foreclosure can't afford to keep them – and they can't afford to donate money to shelters.
Petfinder has a data base of 350,000 animals in more than 13,000 shelters. More than 80% of their pet shelters report taking pets whose owners could not afford to keep them because they lost their home or job.
Saul sympathizes with the owners. "Losing your home and having your family in jeopardy has got to be the most demoralizing thing ever," she says. But she adds: "If you ever needed your pet, someone who's not going to judge you and who is always going to be happy to see you, it's now."
Shaggy's owners know they have a gem.
"He has brought so much joy to us," says Marilyn Strock. "In fact, he owns the house and we pay the mortgage – is what my husband likes to say."

Source: http://usatoday30.usatoday.com/life/lifestyle/pets/2010-08-19-shelter19_ST_N.htm
Copyright © 2009 USA TODAY, a division of Gannett Co. Inc.

 

Also, see:
 

Kamis, 13 Juni 2013

Is Your Dog Potty Trained Enough?

Here are some good housetraining tips that I thought I would pass on. –Kim

House Training Your Puppy or Adult Dog

House training a puppy or adult dog is such an essential issue for his owner that even a single exclusive tip turns out to be extremely helpful.

The first step in making your dog fit for polite company would be to potty train him. Some see this training as a hassle and some as a challenge.
For me, it is part of bringing up a pet.
 
There are a few things you need to know before you actually start potty training a puppy or adult dog. I enumerate these below:
  • You need to understand your dog's body language. Watch for signs that will indicate to you when your pet wants to eliminate.
  • If you own puppies, remember that they need to go potty at fairly frequent intervals – as soon as they wake up, after short naps, after play-time, after meals, before and after being crated and finally, before retiring for the night.
  • Take your dog for walks at the time that he usually does his potty. Take him out to the yard, and then, to the same place there every time he needs to answer nature's call.
  • Praise your dog after he eliminates at the right place. Some dog owners even give treats to their dogs. But remember to do this every time he does it right. He will relate the rewards to his having "done it right" and zero in on the spot where you want him to defecate regularly.
  • With time, you can try signal training. This is so that you know when your doggie wants to go. You can hang a bell at his level near the door and teach him to push it with his nose or pat it with his paw on his way out.
  • Until your dog has been fully potty trained, keep him under strict vigilance. Do not let him roam around the house freely.
  • Use a crate. A crate-trained dog is usually very happy to get his own den. The advantage of crating is that dogs do not soil the place where they sleep. So, he will naturally not eliminate inside the crate.
  • If you have a small dog and if you live in a high-rise building or in a place that does not have a proper backyard, you can try litter pan training. This means to create a space for your pet to eliminate in your house itself.
  • Use positive reinforcements while housebreaking puppies or adult dogs. Do not scold or hit him, as you will gain nothing by doing that. He will only associate punishment with your return from outside. If you catch him in the act, a stern 'NO' or 'FREEZE' will do (but be consistent). It will startle the dog enough for him to stop pooping.
  • Be prepared to return to a soiled home if you are keeping your dog home alone for more than 4 hours, as separation anxiety is quite common among home-alone dogs.
  • Accidents will happen. It is unusual for a trained adult dog to work against his house training. But medical problems or health disorders may lead to sudden accidents.
  • Many dogs mark their territory. These can be a leg of a table or a particular wall. Intact male and female dogs mark their territories by urinating. Use deodorizers to spray on the places where your dog has marked.
  • If you are patient and are ready to accept that house training a dog takes time, even months sometimes, you will end up having a good house-trained dog.

Now we will move on to how to potty train puppies and adult dogs.
 
Potty Training a Puppy
 
Irrespective of breeds, house training a puppy is considered to be one of the biggest challenges by dog owners. If you think house training your puppy simply involves a steady supply of old newspapers or puppy pads, then think again.
 
A puppy does not develop full control over his bladder until he is over 4 or 5 months old. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this time, puppies eat more, burn more calories and need to eliminate more frequently than an adult dog.
 
After each nap, meal, drink or playtime, take your puppy to his designated area (indoors or outdoors, wherever you have decided) and stay there until he eliminates. Then bring him to his crate.
 
Repeat this situation everyday until he has developed a habit out of it.
 
Potty Training an Adult Dog

The best way to house train an adult dog is to begin all over again.
 
Observe him very closely. Maybe even maintain a diary of where he goes and when. Whether he is pooping when you are home or only when you are outside; whether you can, time yourself to be home when he feels the need to go outside.
 
You can try dog crates, but be careful to introduce him gradually to them.
 
Remember: Commitment, consistency and intelligent use of positive reinforcement will make you the owner of a perfectly house-trained dog. Don't expect miracles. You will only be disappointed.
 

Get this unique house training guide and start house-breaking your dog today.
 
Copyright © 2009 TrainPetDog.com
 

Minggu, 19 Mei 2013

How to Train Your Dog at Home

Valuable Resource...

How to Easily Train Your Dog...
Like a Pro

It's essential for dog parents like you to know certain basic factors that determine your relationship with your dog and can go a long way in training him effectively.

Before you begin training your dog, it is absolutely essential that you build a loving bond with him. This is important as it helps you to understand his needs and instincts and also allows your dog to have complete trust in you.

Let's see how.......

How To Bond With Your Dog
Building a bond with your dog is the first and the most crucial step involved in training him successfully. As soon as you bring your dog home, you must first try to develop a caring and loving relationship with him in order to win his trust and confidence.


When dogs are secure in the knowledge that they belong to the family, they are more likely to respond better to their owners' training commands. Just like with any relationship, there must be mutual trust and respect between you and your dog.

Trust takes time to develop and respect comes from defining boundaries and treating any breach of those boundaries with firmness and fairness.

Without enforceable limitations, respect can’t be developed. And when there is no respect, building a bond with your dog is almost impossible.

Four Golden Rules to Building a Relationship with Your Dog:
  • Spend quality time together;
  • Take him out in the world and experience life together;
  • Establish and promote a level of mutual respect; and
  • Develop a way of communicating to understand each other's needs.
Building a bond with your dog will not only help you manage him better but will also make your dog calm, quiet and an extremely well-adjusted pet.

Love your dog and he will love you back!

When you're successful in building a bond with your dog, you can rest assured that training him and teaching him new and clever tricks will be a cakewalk.

Learn how to bond with your dog with this free mini course.

How Your Dog Learns...
Your dog's learning period can be divided into five phases:


The Teaching Phase – This is the phase where you must physically demonstrate to your Dog exactly what you want him to do.

The Practicing Phase – Practice makes Perfect. When a lesson is learned, practice with your dog what you have just taught him.

The Generalizing Phase – Here you must continue practicing with your dog in different locations and in an environment with a few distractions. You can take your dog out for a walk, or to a nearby park and command him to practice whatever you've taught him.

Practicing the learned lessons in multiple locations and in the presence of small distractions will help him learn and retain lessons better.

The Testing Phase – As soon as you're sure that your dog has achieved almost 90% success – he responds correctly almost every time you give a command – you must start testing his accuracy in newer locations with a lot of distractions.

Example: Take him to the local shopping mall and ask him to obey your command. He may not come up with the correct response the very first time you do this, but you must not lose hope.

The idea is to test your dog to see how he responds in an environment that is new to him. Set-up a situation where you are in control of the environment and your dog.

There are only 2 possibilities:
  • Your dog succeeds!!! (Trumpets please!)
  • In case your dog fails, re-examine the situation. Review and/or change your training. Then, try testing again.
Keep on testing until he succeeds. Follow the rule of the three Ps: patience, persistence, praise.

Internalizing Phase Finally, comes the extremely rewarding phase where your dog does everything he is taught to do even without your commands.

Remember:
  • Never scold your dog if he fails. It's not his fault. You have failed as a trainer!
  • You must be patient and persistent for your efforts to show rewards.
  • Appreciate and praise your dog when he does it right! A little encouragement will work wonders for your dog.
  • Dog Training is easy when you do it right.
Continued - Learn how to train your dog better with this free mini course.
Copyright © 2009 TrainPetDog.com
 

Minggu, 31 Maret 2013

Clicker-training: The Highly Effective Method Used by Many Professional Dog Trainers

Valuable Resource...

The 4 Secrets of Becoming a Supertrainer...

The following information may change the way you look at dog training forever.
From Morten Egtvedt & Cecilie Koeste
 
Dear Fellow Dog Trainer,
Did you know that there are FOUR important secrets about training dogs (or any other animals), that can make YOU capable of solving every behavior problem you will ever meet – and teach any new behavior or trick you can imagine?

Did you know that regardless of whether you have just gotten your first puppy or whether you are already an experienced dog owner or trainer – learning these secrets could change your life?

Did you know that everything you have heard about clicker training until now may be just the tip of the iceberg?

Did you know that most people using clicker training today never really unleash the full potential of this powerful technology?

Well, that is going to change for you, my friend...

...as soon as you learn the 4 Secrets of Becoming a Supertrainer.

Meet Emma. She is the kind of dog trainer who is able to solve ANY kind of dog problem. No matter what kind of dog, no matter what kind of behavior problem. Emma knows exactly how to analyze the problem, design a training plan and fix it. And dogs just love her!

Emma used to be just like most other dog owners. She believed that advanced dog training was only for experts with special talents (you know, like the "dog whisperers" on TV).

But then Emma learned about Clicker Training and the 4 Secrets of Becoming a Supertrainer. And when you know these secrets your life changes. Because now you always know where to look for solutions when you want to fix a problem, teach a new behavior or improve your training.

When YOU learn these 4 secrets you too will be ready to face ANY training challenge. And just like Emma you will be laughing at "dog whisperers" with all their superstitious explanations.

Because you will know that dog training is not magic – it's SCIENCE. And everyone can learn these scientific principles and use them effectively in their training.


 
So, where do I learn more about these secrets?
Click here for more information!

Sabtu, 19 Januari 2013

Dog Etiquette Rules

Here's some great advice that I thought I would pass on...hope you find it interesting! –Kim

Space Etiquette for Dogs


NEWSFLASH! Running up to another dog and ignoring requests to go away is not "friendly," it is rude. Just like people, DOGS NEED PERSONAL SPACE. If a stranger came up and put his hand on your body, you'd be allowed to step back, yell and push him away. Dogs have the same right to enforce their boundaries. Some dogs are called "reactive" because they are more sensitive than others. Reactive dogs are good dogs, they just need more distance and compassionate training. You can help them by honoring their need for personal space.
  1. Never let your off-leash dog go up to an on-leash dog.
  2. Lock retractable leashes when you see other dogs.
  3. Ask before approaching or petting any dog.
  4. Have compassion for people with shy or reactive dogs.
Please do not chase us. Let us pass without interaction, and keep your judgments to yourself.

Source: http://doggiedrawings.net/post/842176625
© 2011 Lili Chin



7 Dog Etiquette Rules

By Janine Allen
May 24th, 2009

Wouldn't it be great if everyone else loved our dogs as much as we do? Increase the chances of this happening by following the etiquette rules listed below.
  1. No matter how well trained your dog is, put him on a leash when near strangers. People will appreciate your respect for their safety and well-being.
  2. Avoid approaching people or dogs directly when in public. Move off to the left or right to pass by; step off the curb if necessary. Fearful dogs and fearful people will be thankful.
  3. Always, when there is a leash in hand, put a poop bag in your pocket. Carry three: one for you, a spare and one to share.
  4. Leave your female dog at home when she is in season. Her pheromones will bring out the worst in otherwise well-behaved dogs.
  5. Ask, and be specific, before letting your dog approach people or other dogs. "Is he friendly?" gives no warning to other dog owners that you are going to let your dog lunge forward.
  6. When you have been invited to a home, event or activity, ask before bringing your dog.
  7. Until your dog is trained not to jump on people, put him away when guests arrive. Let him out after guests have settled in. Leash or tether him if he tends to nose, poke or paw people for attention.
Your dog would want others to think as highly of him as you do. Don't disappoint him.


Janine Allen (CPDT) is Rescue Me Dog's professional dog trainer. Janine's passion is working with people and their dogs. She provides demonstrations for those who have adopted shelter dogs, lends email support to adopted dog owners that need information beyond our Training Support Pages, and aids shelter staff and volunteers in understanding dog behavior to increase their adoptability.

Source: http://rescuemedog.org/dog-blog/7-dog-etiquette-rules/
Copyright 2013 Rescue Me Dog


Also, see: